I have a Hot Springs Vanguard Spa and can't get heat. It has the IQ 2020 control panel. There are three leads going to the Heater, Black, White, Green/Ground. When I raise the thermostate above the temp of the water, the light shows the heater is on, and there is 119 v on the black, 119 v on the white when testing. When I lower the thermostate, the heater cuts off, no voltage on the white or black, when it gets below the temp of the water. The problem is, the heater does not heat. I have replaced the heater and still no heat. Is 119 on each of the leads, black/white, correct. If so, what else might I check? Thanks in advance for any assistance.

on 99.9999999% of the heaters in the world you will always get 120V from each leg of the heater to ground. For this reason you NEVER check voltage to gound when dealing with a spa heater, in order to properly check voltage on the heater you need to check between the two terminals of the heater. that is where you will either get 220V or 0, when you see that you get zero you can then move back to check your heating contactors and you pressure switch, see if the contactors are closed and check your pressure switch for continuity while the pump is running (disconnect the wires on the pressure switch). if there is no continuity then you need to replace the pressure switch, if there is continuity then you will more than likely have to replace the heating contactors.

Hello. I know of your spa model. The heater is 220 volts. If you are getting 220v from the leads (black & white wire) then you know you are getting proper power to the heater. On the heater itself there is a TCO (Thermal Cut Off) it is a high limit switch that trips when the water inside the heater get too hot. The reason that the heater would over heat is a direct result of the flow of water through the heater. If the flow through the heat is too slow, or not moving at all... Then the water in the heater will get too hot and trip the heater. On a hotspring spa, there should be a flashing red light that lets the owner know that this TCO (high limit) has been tripped. It is the circulation pumps job to pull water from 1 of the 4 filters inside the spa and push it through the heater. HotSpring spa have 100% filtration. This means that that filter is ALWAYS filtering water. Possibly the filter is full (with oils clogging the pours of the filter)... this all means that the circulation pump cannot pull water from a clogged filter. What will happen is the heater will double heat the slower moving water in the heater (or boil the sitting water in the heater). This is a direct result of the filter or circulation pump. If you have power to the heater, and you have pressed the high limit button that is located on your "No Fault" labeled heater, and your filter is clean, and you have circulation from the filter through the heater back into the spa. And still no heat... Then, the heater is inoperative. If you are the original owner that heater should still fall under the No Hassle/No Question, 5 year no pro-rated warrenty. Parts and Labor is covered.

I hope this helps for you. Let me know! This has been my first post! Its my everyday job to assit and take care of (especially HotSpring) Customers.

Thanks for your reply. It turns out that one of the relays had burned out on the heater relay board. I changed out the board and still had trouble with the breaker tripping. I hadn't removed the jumpers from the new heater board. Once I did that it works great. It would be best if they shipped the board without the jumpers installed. The directions said that they were not needed and I assumed it was the jumpers on the IQ2020 board. Anyway, it seems to be heating great. I ended up replacing the heater first and since I am not the original owner, had to pay. I've heard the newer style heater is better and I guess I've got a spare in the older one.

What is your opinion on the Fresh Water III system? Is the hotsprings dealer the only place to purchase it? Once again, thanks for your reply.

Is the heater that you have in your spa look like 4 Black tubes. With 3/4" inlet and outlet side by side??? It is always a great peace of mind knowing that you have a direct replacment part for your spa. Knowing the heater is the most common cause of heat failure. Just a note...Someone of the right person might just be in desire of the exact heater. Because there are some spa models out their, that being a 1995 & 1996 HotSpring Landmark owners out there, who would rather install the heater that you have, then the new tri bed heater. Install times for the heater that you have would be about 5-10 mintues. Install times on a heater for the new tri bend are about 1hr-2hrs. Because of the configuration in this model of spa equipment compartment the circulation pump and heater both have to be relocated. I know all these details because of the couple years of Service Experience. Also I own the same model that is the hardest/longest to change. All I am saying is that you could put it on Ebay and possibly get $150-200 for it. Myself I would recommend installing that heater instead of the Tri Bend Heater for the amature. Those heaters are no longer made. Supply and Demand.

Back to the question. The Freshwater 3 ozone is a must in my opinion. It is not a necessity. I would highly recommend it in anyone’s spa to have a continuous sanitation. The use of your primary sanitizer is still needed. This will just allow for less chemicals to be added in your water. I must first educate you about it. Don’t be fooled there are more the just one kind of ozone. There is UV (Ultra Violet) and CD (Corona Discharge). The UV use the ultra violet bulb that in time, 2-3 years is average life will burn out (at least that is what I have noticed). The CD is much different, read up on it. Without going into specific details. You will find that the CD ozone have a much longer life. It is considered high output! Which means you will have better smelling water and clearer water. There are different brands out there. If this matters to you, it would be easier to install a Freshwater 3 ozone because HotSpring has an interface plug in the bottom right of the IQ board so that you can plug it in-fool proof. If that doesn’t bother you to wire it up. I can only recommend to you to go with the CD Ozone that has a name brand ozone injector included that will produce nice full endless ozone bubbles into your spa. Just remember that you get what you pay for no matter how you feel you out thought out the situation. Average price for a ozone is about $300 - $350. Let me know if you have more questions. I will keep a look out.