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 Post subject: Motor Hookup Question
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 12:51 pm 

Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2005 12:41 pm
Posts: 2
Location: New Hampshire
I have a PDC Spa with 230V service to the box in a home I recently moved into. I noticed that the motor kept going into thermal shutdown after 15 - 20 minutes of running on high speed. It was suggested that I upgrade to a 1HP pump from the 3/4HP that was existing. I ordered a 230V 2spd 1HP pump, but when I went to remove the exisiting pump I noticed that on it's case it says it's a 115V motor?! I also noticed that on the case of the spa electrical box there's a switch for 115/220V, and it's currently in the 220V position. The motor that's currently there has 4 wires to it: Green (case ground), white (common), Red (high speed), and black (low speed). The new motor has numbered tabs on it.. 2 - 4 have tabs, 1 has a black wire coming out of it and connecting to an orange wire in the motor, and slot 5 appears to be an empty slot. Reading the manual for the spa it does have instructions for a 220V changeover in the box, and looking at the box wiring it is wired as per those instructions. Should the motor have been upgraded to a 230V unit when this was done, or does that just affect heater operation and the motor voltage is output as 115V from the box? Is it possible to hook up this 230V motor to this unit, or do I need to get a 115V pump? Thanks for any assistance!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:48 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Albert Lea, MN
Spas that are convertable from 120 to 240 will use only 120v motors. The 240 option is only for the heater. On the side of the new motor there should be a label or a plaque that indicates which terminal is for high speed, low speed, and common. Hook up as per the original pump, red for low, black for high, but the neutral will go to the common. In the control box you will need to move the white wire for the existing pump neutral to the other side of the 240v supply line. There is often a location on the board or the terminal strip for this. It's best to use a voltmeter to locate this terminal before hooking up any wire to the motor.

Just keep in mind that this modification is not supported or documented, and could void any warranties on your tub.



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 6:54 pm 

Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2005 12:41 pm
Posts: 2
Location: New Hampshire
Thanks for the speedy reply Charger1! :D I still have one problem though.. on the case for the motor, it says #1 is the common, #3 is high speed, and #2 is low speed.. here's a picture:

Image


Seems straightforward enough, however when looking at the motor connections the problem is there's no tab for #1... there's a black wire coming out of the slot where #1 is, and it connects to a tab with an orange wire (the yellow arrow in the second picture):

Image

Image


This is why I'm confused.. how can I connect to a terminal that has no provisions for connection?!?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 7:55 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Albert Lea, MN
Ahh, Advantage Manufacturing... I have no idea why these guys are in business... Of all the motors i've seen from these guys, about half were labeled incorrectly. What I've done in the past (and i'm sure I will catch heck for even suggesting this) is hook it up any two lugs and apply power for just a second or two. If one of the lugs you chose was common, it will spin. If it doesn't spin, the unused lug is common. Trial and error!

I would try in the order it is labeled first, using the top as common.



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ATTENTION! USE THE ADVISE ON THIS FORUM WISELY! WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR INJURIES, DEATH, DAMAGE, ETC. ARISING FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION IN THIS FORUM!

NOTE: I can't guarentee knowledge of all spas.
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