I am upgrading a 20 year old Spartan Hot Tub with a Balboa VS501Z electronic panel and am having trouble understanding the wiring.
I have a single two speed pump wired for 230 volt, a 230 volt blower and a 12 volt light.
I am attaching a copy of the wiring diagram from the front panel. It is difficult to get a decent picture without the flash. It reads VS501Z Wiring Diagram Part Number 54379-01.
I have followed the diagram and run W7 to red AC. I have run wire W1 to red AC as well. There is no jumper between Red AC and White AC.
I can not get the pump to run or the blower. The heater clicks on and off then stops.
I have also tried W1 and W7 to white AC. I get no voltage readings at all.
Do I need to set the dip switch #1 to Test. I can't find any info on this.

Thanks in advance

I just spent most of the day with the same issue, and finally solved it. I have the same set up you have. My heater would kick on and off, and the display was showing "dr" or "dy", I could hear the relay clicking when I pushed the pump or the blower button, but neither would turn on. After checking all my connections, I finally found that the main power input fuse at F5 on the schematic - (30A time delay) was blown. It's in the upper left corner at top of circuit board. To test: put your meter from the black wire coming into the circuit board, and then touch either side of the fuse. Both sides should read about 220V +/- 10v. If only one side reads voltage, and the other doesn't, the fuse is bad. I replaced the fuse on mine, and everything works now. The circuit board of this controller is the strangest set up I've ever seen, as I normally would assume if anything works, it all should work, but that's not the case with this one. The board always has power, but the relays control the high voltage. Both are protected by that input fuse described above. Hope this helps you out!!

I forgot something else I was going to tell you. All the white wires except W4 should be connected to the Red AC, and the white jumper removed as you said you had done. Dip switches should all be OFF unless you have no circ. pump, then "9" should be ON. The reason the heater clicks on and then off is due to the overlimit protection built into the circuit board. Go to Balboa Instruments web site, and download the technical Service manual for the M-7. This is similar to the VS501Z, and there is a lot of helpful information for troubleshooting the control pak.