Hey guys, great forum. This is my first time posting and I really need some expert advice. I think this is the place to get it.

I have an older Leisure Bay hot tub that was built in 1995. It recently flooded during Hurricane IKE, and I am looking to replace all the electrical parts rather than go to the trouble of tearing the whole thing out and buying a new one. It saw about 18" of water.

I have a deck built around it, and the tub is in great condition and worked fine, until the great flood happened. I only paid $500 for it 3 years ago, and quite honestly, with all the other damage we had I am not really in a cash position to buy a new one. And tearing it all out, hauling it off, and bringing a new or used one in is more work than I have time for. However, things are slowly getting back to normal down here on the Texas Gulf Coast, and with the cooler weather setting in I really want to get my tub up and running. It has not been a priority until now. It is such a great stress reliever in times like these. And, I really enjoy fixing things, so let's go.

Here are my specs:

I'm not sure of the model as I bought it used. It is a Leisure Bay, square, built in 1995, 8' x 8', with a lounger and about 36 jets.

Heater/Controller
ProShield 220V, 40A
Model #G151022LSSO15-H
It has air controls to the top side other than one wire which I assume provides the digital temperature readout. The temperature adjustment is a rotary dial, and the rest of the controls are pushbuttons.

Primary Pump
2 speed, 230V, 9A/4A, 3.0-.33 HP, 3450-1725 RPM
The wet end is a Waterway 315-1110 and has an 1-1/2” outlet which is plumbed to operate 1/2 of the jets, and a separate 1" barbed fitting with a hose that goes to the inlet of the heater/control panel. The outlet of the heater is also a 1" hose which goes to outlets that discharge into the bottom of the tub. From what I can tell this is considered a low flow heater arrangement. The only water that is supplied to the heater is through the 1" hose.

Secondary Pump
1 speed, 230V, 10A, 3.0 HP, 3450 RPM
The wet end is also a Waterway 315-1110 and has a 1-1/2” outlet which is plumbed to operate the other 1/2 of the jets. There is no additional barbed fitting on this one.

Blower 1 speed, 115V, 7.6A, 2.0 HP, 50/60HZ

There was no damage to the shell, frame,or cabinet, and there are no apparant leaks anywhere. As I mentioned before, I want to restore rather than replace. And, I need to do it as cheaply as possble. If I can get another 4 or 5 years out of the tub I will be very happy. as will my wife, and you know how that goes.

So far, I have had my motors refurbed for $50 each. I have ordered new shaft seals and o-rings for my end ends. I am going to eliminate the blower as I hated it and never used it in the 1st place. All that leaves is the heater and controller. That is where my issue comes in. Most of the new or used spa packs I am finding are full flow through units. I am fairly certain that I can't just buy one of those and hook up the heater inlet to the 1" hose that I currently have for heater supply as I'm sure I will have low flow issues and constant tripping. I'm sure there are replacement ones out there for low flow but most of them seem to be in the $700 - $1,000 range. However, there are other options. For example, I have a connection on a slightly used Spa Builders Model SC-MP-P122-P212-B1-01 heater/controller unit with a 5 KW heater, but it has a 1-1/2" inlet and outlet.

Could I use something like that by doing the following?: Plug the existing 1" spare outlet on my wet end, and then tee off the 1-1/2" dischagre, with the new branch running to the heater inlet and the existing line continuing to the maniflod that currently supplies 1/2 of the jets? I guess I could then reduce the heater discharge back down to 1" to supply my existing two heater discharges?

I can even buy a new Spa Pack in the $300 range on eBay, but I would have the same plumbing issue with that one if I tried to stay with the 1" heater supply line.

What do you guys think? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

I think you've got it covered. Plug the 1" port in the pump and run the new flow-through heater from the main discharge of pump 1. If you 'T' the heater off the main line you may need to put a valve in on the non-heater-side plumbing to ensure that you can get at least 15 gpm directed through the heater. Otherwise you'll have a constant overheating problem.