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 Post subject: Leisure Bay Spa......advice needed on a couple of things.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 5:29 pm 

Joined: Sun Nov 12, 2006 1:56 pm
Posts: 5
Location: South Carolina
I have a small LB spa, 110 volt, with under cabinet contols. Just a basic little spa but the size is just right for our use and space. It takes two days to get up to temp and I'm not happy with that and the controls. The high limit kicks in and shuts off the heat once the water temp gets about right. What do you think about upgrading the spa pack and heating element to make it better?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 7:39 am 

Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 7:22 am
Posts: 1
Hi. Not so sure you really need an entire new pack set up... as far as taking that long to heat up have you considered switching it to 220 rather than 110? You might be looking at a few bucks to run the wiring but it's very simple to switch it as long as your model is capable of it, it's just a matter of moving ONE jumper wire on most models as far as I know. In the final tally it actually costs less to operate a hot tub on 220 voltage than 110, and it will heat up from whatever to top heat cut off in a matter of a few hours. Also, most tubs have a limiter dial located behind the front panel to raise the heat cut off, simply turn it and it will raise the auto cut off. If you look at your panel you should see a little circular emblem with an arrow going arond it saying Heat or something to that effect, the limiter dial will be located behind that emblem. Don't know if this is any help to you at all but thought I'd throw my 2 cents in here... on the other hand, heck, I'm so stupid I'm on here trying to find info on something that should be so stupid simple it's embarassing to post it?! L.O.L.! I can't get the dang filter canister lid off to replace the filter! Paul


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 Post subject: 2-pack?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 9:21 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:18 pm
Posts: 102
Hi NStribling,
It sounds as though you may have a 110v only unit. The 2-Pack series has a control box mounted onto "L" brackets. I call it the "Wobbly Pack" because when you push it, it moves. Please don't turn ANY of the set screws you may find in the thermostat, or high limit. Replace these componants. If you upgrade to a digital system, and remain 110V, then your performance will not improve. Consult your electrical codes for 220V operations, and consider upgrading your controller. Pictures will help everyone here, if all of the above makes no sence.


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 Post subject: Waterway Pressureized
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 12:10 am 

Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:18 pm
Posts: 102
Hi Paul,
Press Down on the lid as much as you can,
http://spapartsnet.com/Popular-Spa-Part ... 0_1_1.html
Then gently tap the grey lock tab of the lock ring counter clockwise while it is in the up position. ( sounds tricky, and it is) http://spapartsnet.com/Reference-Catalo ... 4_0_1.html
Pull lid straight up, and replace lid o-ring, and or lubricate.
http://spapartsnet.com/Reference-Catalo ... 1_0_1.html
Do not re-seat the lockring as tight as it will go. Tighten it, and back off a hair. Your problem isn't silly, in fact it is very common. I rather enjoy wrestling a good top load can every now and then. :)


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