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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:18 am
Posts: 19
Location: Arizona
Okay, trying to move forward here....

With a clamp on ammeter I measured 4.19 amps on the incoming hot (black) wire and 4.11 ams on the neutral (white). Both leads to the heater element terminals measured zero amps, but they're showing 119 volts.

Never uploaded photos before, but I'll try to attach ones of the connections/control panel/wiring diagram. If that doesn't work, then I know I can email them. I have 8 photos, but your program only seems to want to download 5. The images are much clearer via email than they are on the "Preview" of this post. Hey, I'll go ahead and email them to Pageup.

You need to verify that you actually have voltage -across- the two heater terminals.

Does this indicate the heater element is toast? Are there any more tests I need to make?
Craig


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:52 pm 
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Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
With the power off do an ohms check on the heater element.
You should have something in the range of 9-15 ohms.



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:06 pm 
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That's a ROGER, 14.8 ohms


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:16 pm 
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Then you must measure voltage ACROSS the heater terminals -

not terminal to ground or neutral...

Check it again.



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 9:43 pm 
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Not exactly sure what you're asking for here. When I touch the test leads to the two heater element terminals the reading is zero volts. Is that measuring "ACROSS the heater terminals"?

Craig


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 10:27 pm 
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Yes.
Zero volts means no power to the heater.

Which in essence means your system board is not doing what it's supposed to do.

For an icon it's the blue screen of death... The only thing that can be done at this point in time is to replace it.



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 10:48 pm 
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Location: Arizona
Pageup,
That's probably the one thing I most didn't want to hear. So what's a ballpark on the cost of a new or rebuilt controller? If it has to be replaced, is it possible to replace it with a better model of control panel?
Who do you recommend as best source to get one?
Craig


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 11:01 pm 
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Well I try to make these things easy - this one here:
http://spapartsnet.com/Spa-Packs-Contro ... 8_3_1.html
is the best way to go IMO.

It should almost drop in and replace what you have easily. Comes with new cords, topside control, as well as a 2 year warranty.

We can walk you through it easily. Especially since you've got a camera and know how to use it.



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 12:03 am 
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Location: Arizona
Well, this sets us back a little :( . Gonna have to stack a few dollars up in order to continue on.

Well, Mr. Pageup, I really do apprciate your help on this one and for the money I didn't spend on parts that wouldn't have fixed it. It's been an education, and you've been a patient teacher :wink: .

I'll be back when we're ready to order the spa pack.

Craig


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 1:00 am 
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Been studying things over.

How would you compare the ACC ePACK to the Balboa VS 501 in terms of quality and longevity?


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