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 Post subject: no heat after OH code
PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 1:50 pm 

Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 11:27 am
Posts: 9
Location: Fort Lauderdale Fl
I have a Leisure Bay circa 1999 spa with a LB102R Balboa controller, I recently replaced the entire heating tube and all has been ok untill a few days ago....I let the water level fall a little low (not much) and the panel showed an OH code...so I shut the tub off and refilled, started it back up the next day and all is working ok, exept no heat...pump ok, lights ok, heat light comes on, jets work etc etc...but no heat...does not trip anything and fuses all look good....any tips, advice would be appreciated
thanks in advance


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:50 am
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Location: SW Florida
How long has it been since you topped it off and let it start heating again, is it covered, and is it 110 or 220v?



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 Post subject: no heat after OH code
PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 2:32 pm 

Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 11:27 am
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Location: Fort Lauderdale Fl
I had it off (at the breaker) for over 24hrs...I don't keep it covered since it's in my covered patio and It's a 220v feed.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 2:49 pm 
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If you've got a heat indication, measure the voltage at the heater terminals. (ACROSS them). You should get 215-250 volts or thereabouts.

If you do, then you need to replace the heater element.

If not, then you probably need to replace the circuit board.



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 4:31 pm 

Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 11:27 am
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Location: Fort Lauderdale Fl
the whole circuit board?....seems radical....isn't there something that I could try to reset in there?...like a relay or a switch...I think that circuit boards are really expensive no?...thanks for any advice again....


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 4:40 pm 
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Yep.

That's why I said to check the voltage first. More than likely you ran into an overheat condition... and it fried the element.

If the heater is on a small water line (like 1" pvc), then be sure the output jet isn't clogged. That will cause the same problem with overheating.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:48 pm 

Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 11:27 am
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Location: Fort Lauderdale Fl
as an aside, is there a way to test an elemet...reason I ask is that I have the old heater assembly that I replaced, and had never tested that element...is there a way to run some juice into it and to see if it gets hot without killing myself?...thanks again (I know I can be a pain)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:54 pm 
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No.. .never do that. You will have a 1500 degree element in about 3 seconds that'll catch on fire if you do.

Get an ohm meter and check across the terminals. Should be somewhere between 10-15 ohms.

In case you don't have a test meter, then go get one from home depot or someplace like that. It's only about 20 bucks.



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 6:18 pm 

Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 11:27 am
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Location: Fort Lauderdale Fl
dear mr pageup, u know ur stuff, my old element tests at exactly 15,
now for a followup....I'm a little nervous about testing the leads on the one that's in there now, running....I breifly did it a bit ago as u suggested to see if 220 was there...somehow I wound up tripping the breaker but it seams I saw 220 flash for a second there....what do u think?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 7:37 pm 
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Well in reality, if you're too nervous to do it, then you probably shouldn't. Get someone that has some experience testing live connections like this to prevent you from making a rather dangerous mistake.

Your breaker tripped because you slipped with the probe on the terminals or you touched the wrong thing or shorted something.

The reading you are talking about doesn't mean anything. It has to be a sustained level of voltage.

That said, you could just turn off the power, and do an ohms check across the terminals. If you get nothing then the element is fried for sure.



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