Not often are spa packs or spas in general set up to be able to run the heater in high. Especially true when you get multiple pumps. The reason is because of the very high current draw, most setups don't have adequate wiring to handle it. Typically a 240V spa will need between 40-50 amps, and with the high speed pump(s) running as well this need can jump up to 60+. That is some hefty wiring and circuit protetction. 240V spa packs will allow the heater to heat in low, but not very often can they be made to heat in high.

The filter looks to be a Rainbow RTL series, using either the C-4625 or the C-4950 filter cartrige. Based on length, I would assume the C-4625. The last two numbers are the filter size in square feet.

I'm wondering is 10AWG good for 20A?

Dan

I guess I need a new seal. I noticed the surface was kind of rough so I sanded it down with a belt sander but that didn't seem to help.

I might also add that I dont have a filter in it. Or not the right kind anyway. I found some foam and stuffed it in there just to try to clear up some of the silt in the tub.

Dan

foam isn't a good idea... the chemicals can break it down and cause it to flake and get into the pump... the closed cell construction will massivly restrict flow.

as for wire gauge:
14ga is good for 15A, 12ga good to 20A, 10ga good to 25-28A.

The seal you are referring to, pump seal maybe? Anyway, a belt sander would destroy the seal. Would have been better off to run the seal dry for a short period of time to resurface it.

Hmm, didn't know that. Just drawing from my experience with my hot tubs I've had over the years. One with a Nu-Wave controller and the other two Morgans. All three would allow the heater to run with the pump on high when wired 220. When running on 110, the Nu-Wave would shut down the heater.

My current Morgan Monaco has dual pumps and a blower. All three motors can run on high, plus the heater, and the 50 amp breaker never fusses. It's wired with about 25 feet of 6 gauge.

It looks like someone previously tried to glue it. No wonder why he gave the thing away. I'm going to try some JB weld.

Dan
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I didn't know that typically the heater only runs during low speed. I was thinking that if you could isolate the input wiring to the heater relay and wire it to its own breaker, you could have smaller wiring and breakers for each circuit and when any breaker would trip, you would know where to look for the problem. Just a thought. (But I don't think my controller box will allow that the way its designed).

Dan

Some older spa manufacturers did actually do this. They had a separate panel that housed a breaker for the heater, a breaker for the pump, and a breaker for the blower. This sub panel was fed from a single larger breaker in the home. It didn't help greatly for diagnostics since the panel was all fed from a GFI in the home panel, any current leakage would trip the home panel GFI before the sub panel breakers would trip. The only advantage this would have would be if the component (like a motor) overloaded but not ground fault.