I was given a spa by a customer and had it stored at a friends for a year and finally got around to hooking it up. I put some water in it and got the pump to run, but I have a couple questions. I have some pictures of it at http://www.hampleman.com/spa2.htm

1) I can't find any sign of a heater. Where is the heater?

2) What are the small clear plastic tubes for going to the controls panel?

3) Why does the blower go threw the handlebar?

4) I think the motor is a 3/4 hp 2 speed. I was wondering if I could upgrade it to a 1 hp using a shallow well pump.

Thanks,
Dan

Not a bad looking shell, but the plumbing is a basket case!

To answer your questions:

1) The heater is that stainless steel tube on the output side of the pump. It's got a grey box attached to it. Inside that box is the high-limit switch. Should also be a flow/pressure switch.


2) The clear plastic 1/4" lines are for the pneumatic push buttons that actuate the functions of the spa. Instead of having high voltage in an area exposed to wet hands, you press the air buttons on the spaside and the little puff of air actuates the electrical switch inside the control box.


3) The blower runs through the handrail to get a loop up above the water line. This is done to prevent water from backflowing into the blower. For extra safety, there should be this loop and also a check valve.

4) You could, but performance may not be what you expect. Plus, you really need the low speed of a 2 speed pump for filtering and circulation during heating.

Honestly, you can hack this thing back together, but everything looks kinda rough (that pump supported by just the plumbing is downright scary and I'm sure the duct tape holding the blower line together has seen better days!) and really needs totally redone. It may be in your best interest to buy a basic spa pack with new motor, blower, heater, and controls. Real sweet and simple to install and get you into hot water.

Everything looks really scary right now, but if you do want to get by for now with the current equipment, invest in a good run of flexible PVC and relocate that equipment onto a solid pad. That pump just hanging by the pipe is a disaster waiting to happen.

Bond all of that equipment together and make sure that poor old thing is running through a new and properly wired GFCI breaker.

(EDIT NOTE) Just saw the rest of the photos and I see the pump is supported in one of the other photos. Are some of the photos before and afters?

hey thanks, I'll ask down at my local spa supply house for a replacement kit. The photos are just as they are. The pump is sitting on a block of wood. I really need to build some supports for it before I fill it again. I'll post more pics when I get it running again.

Dan

Oh, the pics on the bottom left are just after I set it in place. I had wires holding some of the hardware up so I could turn it sideways and get it threw the door.

Dan

Ahh, okay, that's what I saw that threw me. It looked as if the pump was just hanging by the plumbing. Then I saw in another photo it was sitting on the ground.

As long as it's not hanging by any plumbing, you are pretty good to go. I'd still screw it down to secure it from torqueing around when it kicks on.

How does the pump sound when it runs? If it sounds quiet and smooth, with no water slinging everywhere, I'd keep using it until it dies.

But I would still want to replace the control pack and heater at least once you get serious with the tub and decide you want to keep it alive.

The pump sounds fine. I think it was running at low speed when I tested it. I still need to build a frame for it so I can fill it up all the way and I want to run a wire from my breaker box with a 20A breaker so I can test the heater.

Dan

Oh, I meant to ask, do you know where I can get replacement filters for this thing?

Dan

I'm building a frame for it and if I can get a 20A line to it, I may test it again.

Dan

http://www.hampleman.com/spa.htm

I don't know what exactly your tub takes, but looking at the picture, t's probably a standard 25 SqFt cartridge available at any pool and spa place, or even online at http://www.spapartsnet.com. Check the filter case label and it should say if it takes a 50 or 25 SqFt cartridge. The basic pleated filters are pretty much generic materials. Just need the right size really.

If this tub is something you plan on keeping and upgrading, you may wish to go ahead and run 6 gauge four wire and connect it to a 50 amp double pole GFCI breaker. I gather from what I can see that this tub is currently 120 volts, but having 220 and a 50 amp circuit available is nice for future upgrades. That current spa pack may not be convertible, but whatever you replace it with may be convertible, or 220 only. And 220 is nice because foremost the heater's wattage is more than doubled. Much faster heat times and quicker recovery. Plus most, if not all, spa packs will allow the heater to run while the pump is on HIGH. This helps keep the water near your ideal temperature while the cover is off and you are bubbling away with air mixed in with the water streams.

Unless you want to take on major replumbing to add another pump and more jets, it may not be worthwhile to run the 220 circuit. YOur tub will still get hot and bubbly on 120, it's just faster with 220. But just think about it while you are still in the set-up and build stage.