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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 1:45 am 

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:25 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Maine
I have a 30 amp in my braker box, should i just move the tub to that?
or are you talking about changing my GFCI to a 30amp? I should upgrade my wire to 6gage huh?

Also I can not use the jets/blower when the heater is on, as soon as i hit the button to turn on the jets/blower the heater clicks off and the heater light goes out, & the jet light comes on. When i turn the jets/blower off the heater comes back on or if the temp is at the limit i have it set to the top side will say ready instead of heating and the heater wont come on untill the temp goes below the setting on the topside knob.

I also checked the wire after 24 hours of use "heating/ready" and the wires are not even warm. im sure if the heater and jets/blower was on at the same time it would be a diffrent story.. unless im not getting you here?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 2:10 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am
Posts: 1409
Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
Ok, well what I've told you previously is standard issue.

But your control as it stands sounds like it is configured correctly, if the heater does kick off when you turn on jets or blower.

And yes, you should put the main feed on a 30 amp breaker. I'd keep the 50A gfci in place - it's not protecting against 30 amp overload, but it does give you ground fault coverage as required.



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 2:24 am 

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:25 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Maine
Ok great. that is good news. im heading to the basement right now to switch it to the 30 amp. You may have saved my house tub & me :)

Thank you!
:)

Not to keep you reading this allnight but, do you think backing the bulb for the hi limit out a smidge is a bad idea? the bulb is not showing at all its still in the heater.. It seems to be not tripping pre mature now.. I just backed it out a smidge.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 2:33 am 
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Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
when you backed it out you may have relieved (physical) pressure on the bulb. I don't know. But at this point it's still a good idea to replace it. These things always get trip happy when they get old.



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 12:05 pm 

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:25 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Maine
Pageup wrote:
Unless you can get a volt/ohm meter then there's not much else to do.

1. I don't trust the incoming power set up unless you can tell me what the voltage readings are between White Red, and White Black incoming.

2. You don't have the ability to determine if the pump is getting voltage.

3. To buy more stuff without at least a $5.00 voltmeter to do some quick checks is really an experimental use of money.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=90899

Voltage readings are the only thing that'll help in this case.





Ok I got the volt meter from H.F. It took a looong time to get it.

I just checked the white/red & the white/black like you said to.

WHITE / RED = 122
WHITE / BLACK = 122

Is that what its supposed to be?


Also, If it the pump is on low speed and the tub is heating.
When the tub is done heating and the heating indicator light switchs from "heating" to "ready" is the low speed pump supposed to continue to pump the low speed or should it turn off? Cause mine seems to just keep pumping all the time on low speed even when the tub is "ready". So i have to keep the tub on the summer timer when not in use cause that low speed pump will run ALL the time and rack up my electric bill when on the summer timer it will come on once in a while to heat some to keep it from freezing. then when i want to use it a hour or so befor ill switch it to work on auto / no timer.

is that normal? I feel like the low speed should turn off with the heater once the tub is at the proper temp and the tub switchs to ready? am i wrong?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 12:27 pm 

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:25 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Maine
hello?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:02 pm 

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:25 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Maine
*BUMP*


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am
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Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
Ok well, if you've still got an intermittent pump, you either have a source voltage problem at the pump, or a faulty pump.

It's going to be one or the other.

If your heater is still not working correctly - at this point, I don't know what to trust because the box has had a lot of rewiring done - one error in all of that (including say an intermittent spliced connector - I hate those things) will cause you a world of troubleshooting issues leaving you scratching your head forever until you find it.

The most important issue is the pump - you need to test your voltage at the pump when it does not work... white / red or white /black.

If you've got voltage and it's not running, then your pump is going dead on you... It's an old system - it's going to need help, some major, some minor.



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 2:51 pm 

Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 11:25 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Maine
Ok, Well thank you for your help with this.
I am just going use it as is for now and once all this snow melts im going to just buy a new spa pack and pump motor. Give it a fresh start on equipment. Also I want a 120v system and not a 220v.
I think that will help me save some cash in the long run.

Well, Again thank you.
I would get out there and check the power at the pump motor, but I got snow around my tub higher then the cover with one small walk way to the tub to get in. kinda funny being able to slide the cover flat right off the tub and onto the snow then right back on after.

Ill repost once winter is over. during that time I will find what spa pack you guys sell that would work best with my size tub and the room I have to work with under the tub. thanks soo much.


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