Hi Everyone,

I have a Fiesta/Pacifica 20 jet Cal Spa MY2002 with a 2100RIB Balboa Instruments PCB. Topped off the tub with cold water (went from 99 to 85 pretty quickly) and the next day I noticed that the tub was running constently with the temperature still at 85. I assumed that the heat from the pump was maintaining the water temp.

1. I replaced the heat exchanger XL2000...just becasue it was free life time warrantee, I figured it couldn't hurt....still nothing.
2. Measured the current across the pressure switch...no problem. Voltage with the pump off and open with the pump on.
3. Heat LED on the top control on...when the pump was on.
4. No voltage across the two heater element leads (probably should of checked that before I replaced the heater).
5. All fuses are fine
6. When the heater light come on (as I unplug and plug in the pressure switch) I do not here a click in the contactor. I removed the PCB and there does not appear to be any burnt traces on the pcb nor the wire lugs...not sure about the contacts in the relay.

The relay/contactor is a Zettler AZ2120-1A-15DF 30A 277VAC 1HP 125VAC. I figured before I fork over $329.94 for a new PCB I should ask if replacing this contactor would be a potential solution. A solder sucker and solder iron should do the trick.

If you have any ideas as to another root cause please let me know. I would also be interested in a source that would carry this relay. I did try American Zettler but I think they only deal through distribution. Also, if I need a new PCB is there another souce worth looking into?

Thanks!
Brian

Brian, I have a few questions about your post.

You said:

Did you do an "ohm" check or a actual voltage check? I would suggest a ohm check, pump off and then turn the pump on and it should close in within a couple seconds.

Also you said:

Did you do a voltage check by placing both meter leads on the heater terminals at the same time, then turn up the heat and verify voltage? Take a look at http://spasupport.com/diagrams/spacontrol1.html and where the Black and Red wire connect to the heater, that is the voltage check.

On your topside, are there any error messages or flashing lights?

I actually did an actual voltage check. Going back with an ohm meter the circuit is closed with the pump off with a resistance and open when I turn the pump on.

I did do a voltage check by placing both meter leads on the heater terminals (fabric insulated leads from the element) at the same time, then turn up the heat and verify voltage...still no voltage going to the heater. I did not check them at the power coming into the PCB lugs. I checked the black and red according to the picture link.

No error messages or blinking light on the topside!

I did de-solder the heater relay from the PCB and the contacts are very charred/burnt. I have a new relay from http://www.relaycenter.com coming this week. I'm still not sure this is the root cause but thought $25 is better than $329 for a new PCB...

Any thoughts let me know. Thanks.

Well, if the relay was burnt badly, that may be the cause. On the pressure switch, it should be open (infinite resistance) with the pump off and closed with the pump on. I would verify source voltage to the relay also, there are sometimes 2 relays for heat, one for each terminal might want to trace that out too. Sounds like you are on the correct path.

I never really closed the loop on this one. Bought the relay, reworked the PCB and fired it up. The pump started and a second or so later I heard the click that I was missing. Measured the voltage now across the heater and read 240V!!!

Probably not a job for everyone but went from buying a $329 board to $1.58 relay...not bad.