If there are burn marks and there is not 220 volts for a 220volt tub then the relay board is bad.

so the heating side needs to be at 220 but none of the other ones do: Circ pump, jets or ozonator? This is just so i know i got the 110 / 220 thing right lol. I am certain this thing is set up for 220. Thanks again

Yes, 220 volts at the heater board.

OK so it as to be 220 at the board, but is there maybe any other reason as to why it might not be getting the 220. Or since the other terminals are showing the right readings does that mean there is no way i can have it hooked up wrong. I just dont want to put the new board in and it still isnt getting the 220 because i have something hooked up wrong, or worse blow that board.

Not sure where to start now, i think i am almost back at the beginning. So i put the heater board in last night. I tested voltage at all the terminals before hooking the heater up to it.
I get the following:
Heater Board Terminals are now reading: 240 (was 44)
Circ pump, jet pump and ozonator are all reading 121-122
So to me that all seems great and i am really excited.
I turn the power back off, hook up the leads to the heater and go and turn the power back on. Thats where the nightmare reoccurs. As i sat waiting / watching it took about 30 seconds to start hearing the boiling sound near the pump, then some hissing and then "click" and a green flashing ready light. I really wanted to curse more obsenities then i have ever done in my life at this point, i couldnt though because my very religious father in - law was right next to me so i held it in. OK so anyways, I thought well its maybe just an airlock or something. So turn the power off for 30 seconds or so, turn it back on but turn the jets on immediately to hopefully keep the heater cool and see if i can get rid of the air lock. 30 seconds later, complete system shutdown and a flashing red power light this time. Great! At this time i just sink back in my chair and think, what in the heck have i got myself into. So i power down the system and wait. Disconnect the heater leads. Turn everything back on and it nothing trips or clicks anymore, but thats when i notice the brand new e5 circ pump i bought three days ago, isnt working. ^&%^&%! So i check the voltage again at the board it reads 122, I check it inside the pump at where the wires attach to the pump and it reads 121 or so.
This i think is where i have to finally throw in the towel, unless some one has some great ideas. I still have a call into a tech guy, but they are out 4 weeks winterizing pools.
Does anyone know if there is a built in fuse or something for those circ pumps? Is this one dead already, and if so, my warranty should cover it, right?
Any ideas on whats up with the heater now?

minor update: At the time the heater shuts off and the system powers down i hear a lot of gurgling/bubbling noises. Is all this the cause of an air lock? If it is FANTASTIC, if not then what,lol. My father who previously owned the tub said that to get rid of air locks you just turn the jets off and on, does that seem right?

Thanks for listening.

OK so another update. I tried getting rid of the "airlock" to no avail. When i turn everything on, it last about a minute, then i get the green flashing light still. The Circ pump still isnt running. I called a local rep and they told me to turn on the 20 amp side at the panel, and I was like woah i dont have a 20 amp side i just have a disconnect. He said well then thats your problem. I said well the tub ran this way for four years prior to it moving down here to Nebraska from Iowa. He said that when I turn it on the heater is drawing all the power and not giving enough to the circ pump to run. Well I remember distinctly taking the heater leads off the heater board, and the circ pump would not run still. So now i am really at a loss. I have called three diff spa techs and no one is available to come out for weeks. I am afraid with the impending weather soon upon us, i am gonna be up a creek with no paddles. Apparantly this panel he speaks of runs 300 hundred bucks. Thanks to anyone that responds.
One more thing, whats the warranty process typically like on that circ pump. Do i need to return it to California and then they get me a new one or can i take it to the local guy here?

If the wiring worked before and is exactly the same, it should work again. I'm not familiar with any HotSpring wiring that is different from what it is supposed to be, so I can't help you there.

A couple of things on the new circ pump:

1.They are self priming, so they run for a few seconds, and if they don't have water flow, they shut down for a few seconds, then start up again...etc...

2.If that is not happening and it doesn't come on at all then I would double-check the wiring in the back of the circ pump. The new clips that hold the wires in are a bit of a pain and one of the wires may have come out.

If in fact it is no good, you would have to return it to whoever you bought it from.

I was told by the original Hot Springs guy that set the tub up that it should and has run like it is setup here. So i am leaving that alone.

As for the circ pump i have taken it out and inspected everything and it seems everything is still connected. I also (while the tub had power and was running) took the discharge piping side of the pump off to see if water would come through the pump and it did. So to me that meant it had water going through it. There was definetly water in tubes while the tub was on, but it def was not circulating like it should. Not sure why the thing is dead. It looks like i will have to enact the 30 day return policy.

Thanks Dan

Latest update:
So I did all this last Friday Sept. 19. I had received the new parts (a new control thermistor, a new E5 Circ pump, and a new high limit thermistor) and was ready to install. I put the new thermistors in with no problems at all. Now for the pump again. I had no problem with this previously, except for the pump quit working on me after two days. So this time i wanted to make sure i wasnt doing anything wrong, so that i would be more sure that the other pump just failed and i could claim warranty on it. So i had eveerything hooked to the boards, (heater was tripped though and i knew it, i just wanted it to start at a diff time then everything else), I did not have the circ pump wires into the back of the pump but they were attached to the main circuit board. I wanted to check voltage on everything just to be safe, so I went to my disconnect and pushed it in and as i did i heard and saw a large spark at the end of the wires that were supposed to attach to the circ pump, the stupid things were touching and i didnt notice it in time. So i pull everything off the main circuit baord and heating board to examine the damage to the main board. Fearing the worst, all that really happened was one of the tracer wires had blown or whatever you want to call it, so the power wasnt making it from one sodder joint to the next. So i tried calling to see if anyone could fix and no one could get to it for two weeks. So not wanting to wait anymore my neighbor and i soddered a wire from one joint to the next. I figured i was already out the board what else could go wrong with it. So i hook everything back into the IQ2020, heater baord main board and all the leads to each of the terminals, i then hook up the circ pump. So now i am ready to turn this **** thing on and see what blows up next. I turn it on and everything is running great, except for of course the heater because i know it is tripped. So now all i have to do is push the button in and wait for the heat. It takes me a beer and 45 minutes to get the courage up to push the thing in, because i dont want to blow another circ pump. So i finally push it and wait ... still waiting .. and nothing is going wrong .. everythign is still running. The only thing at that time i dont know is wether or not the heater is actually heating. So i had to wait. Two hours and two Monsters with Vodka later, i go to check it and it seems warmer, just dont know if its me and the alcohol or the thing is actually working. I come back out an hour later, stick my hand in and now I know ... it is heating i check the temp and it reads 85. I do two cartwheels and five backflips (ok not really) ... but i am totally pumped. I was in the tub by 11 oclock after about 4 hours of heating and it was around 97. By midnight i was soaking in 102 degree water. Only thing is, is i blew my fuses at the wall with everything running (lights, jets, heater going for 5 hours, circ pump and ozonator), no biggie though replaced the fuses and back in business. Only thing left to do is switch the disconnect setup i have to the one the 30\20 setup that Hotsprings wants it setup like. But its running now and has been since Friday night. I just usually only run the jets for ten minutes or so. Its been a long time coming getting this thing going and just wanted to thank all those out there that helped me.
I will be putting up pictures and cost updates in the near future when i get the courage to figure out what this free hot tub really cost me.

Cost update:
$975.00 (unless Hot Springs warranties my circ pump which they should for 147.00)
Not terrible, to me anyway, i think it is well worth it.

Pics to come.

Since you have already done so much to the tub to get it this far, and have given it a thorough service, I would suggest replacing the heater element, wiring loom, and the board.

This is a common problem with spas, often caused by a loose/dirty/corroded connection somewhere in the heater circuit, normally one of the spade clips. As a poor connection increases resisitance in such a high-power circuit, it gets very hot at the bottleneck. This will cause the wires to heat up, eventually burning out, and relays (black plastic inch by inch things) to melt. This in turn corrodes the cable increasing resistance further. It can also be caused by the heater element breaking down internally.

If you dont want to go for a new heater, then I'd check for any loose connections in the heater circuit, and try exposing the connections on top of the element and look for burning. If you measure the current (amps) and the voltage (volts), then multiply them together, you should get a result in Watts for the power of the heater.

If the heater is a 3kw, you should get 3000 watts or close to it (1.5kw = 1500watts etc). However if the results don't match, then this confirms what I've said above regarding excessive resistance in the circuit.

If it is possible to SAFELY observe the circuit with the power on and cover off, then maybe try this (at your own risk) and see if you can see any sparking on any of the terminals.

Sorry, but I don't think there is a cheap way round this one. As the board is looking a bit suspect/burned anyway, you could try replacing that, then the heater if it still doesnt work.

Let us know how u get on.