It is currently Fri Oct 10, 2008 5:33 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours



Login

Register  •  Username:   Password:   Log me on automatically each visit  



 Page 1 of 1 [ 6 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Non standard water pump use
PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:36 pm 

Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:16 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Rochester Michigan
I am nursing along a circ pump (the small one that feeds the heater when the spa is at rest in case I have the name wrong) on an ok spa that was given to me. Kind of light on funds now so I keep looking to save a buck.
I asked at the local spa place how much for a Tiger River Spa Tondi circ pump. They said around $350. Kachink!
So I look on the web for just a water pump. Within 5 web pages I find a Pony Pump Self-Priming 360 GPH FOR $49.99. It has garden hose fittings so I think even my teenage daughter could hook it up.
So for $300 what excitement would I miss? What could possibly go wrong using the wrong pump, but a pump none the less?
I am new to spas but I have always been able to fix things. I have already done my first repair and replaced a heater. I look forward to some advice from seasoned spa people.

Thanks,
Jeff


Offline
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 11:48 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:50 am
Posts: 937
Location: SW Florida
I'm not sure who gave you the figure of $300, but your circ pump retails for about 1/2 that...

Nothing wrong in using a different pump, but be aware of a few things... Continuous 24 hr duty on a circ pump generates alot of heat, be sure your pump is meant to run 24 hours a day, 365 days a year...in a setting where ambient temp will already be over 100 F, you won't get much use out of a pump that is designed for intermittant applications.

Also, Hot tub water is, by nature, a very harsh environment for any peice of equipment... Your current pump is magnetically driven (no shaft, ie no shaft seals to leak)... you'll want to keep a close eye on your H2O chemistry if you're going with a traditional design pump, shaft seal leaks will ruin a pump like this in no time....

When working properly, your current pump pulls about 0.6 amps, and flows approx 3 g/min. It is a water cooled design, transfering nearly all the heat it generates back into the spa (The magnetically designed pump allows the front of the motor to double as the rear of the wet-end) Frankly, I think you'll go through more than 3 of these other pumps before going through another Silentflo 5000.
It appears your choice for replacement draws about double the amps, is meant for intermittant use, will not transfer much heat back into the water (The largest part of your elec. bill in ownership of a spa), and will run extrtemely hot.

Hope this info is helpfull, probably not what you want to hear
:(



_________________
t'was a woman that drove me to drink, and I've never had the courtesy to thank her
Offline
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 5:30 pm 

Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:16 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Rochester Michigan
Actually that is what I wanted to hear.
I used to own a commercial printing plant and needed a lot of parts. I saved a lot of money by over engineering things and avoiding the over marked up manufacture prices.
I have used plumbers to thread galvanized pipe rather than the OEM flexible plastic pipe. The plumber was 30% of the raw pipe cost. I would take a broken part to a local machine shop and pay there total cost to tear down, make my part, then reset up there machine and still be 50% of the OEM. The local guys quality was also better.
But with spas I am still learning the standards to look for. Your post helped.
Most significant was that you must have a better more affordable supplier because your $150 sound a lot better than my local stores $300. Where are you getting parts?
Thanks


Offline
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:21 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Albert Lea, MN
I just wanted to add that flow rate is an important factor to consider when selecting a circ pump as well. You need to make sure the replacement has as much flow, or more, than the original. Shortchanging this could cost you a few heater elements in the worst case.



_________________
Please be patient for replies

ATTENTION! USE THE ADVISE ON THIS FORUM WISELY! WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR INJURIES, DEATH, DAMAGE, ETC. ARISING FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION IN THIS FORUM!

NOTE: I can't guarentee knowledge of all spas.
Offline
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:24 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:50 am
Posts: 937
Location: SW Florida
jrwwwww wrote:
Actually that is what I wanted to hear.
I used to own a commercial printing plant and needed a lot of parts. I saved a lot of money by over engineering things and avoiding the over marked up manufacture prices.
I have used plumbers to thread galvanized pipe rather than the OEM flexible plastic pipe. The plumber was 30% of the raw pipe cost. I would take a broken part to a local machine shop and pay there total cost to tear down, make my part, then reset up there machine and still be 50% of the OEM. The local guys quality was also better.


That's excellent... sounds kinda fun, too 8)

Quote:
Most significant was that you must have a better more affordable supplier because your $150 sound a lot better than my local stores $300. Where are you getting parts?
Thanks
Any Hot Spring dealer. Don't go to a dealer that doesn't specialize in Hot Springs. Most Hot Spring parts are propietary, and those without a direct link to Watkins (Hot Springs), including other Spa dealers, pay the same price you do from any Hot Springs dealer...

Click Here, then click on Spa Pumps to get an idea of what you need, and navigate a little to find other possible sources for this pump.

Good luck

If you got that price from a Hot Spring dealer, tell them there must be a mistake, because you just spoke with Watkins Manufacturing, and they informed you that it RETAILS for $155.60 (part # 73588)

Good luck,

~Swine



_________________
t'was a woman that drove me to drink, and I've never had the courtesy to thank her
Offline
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2005 9:54 am 

Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:16 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Rochester Michigan
I appreciate the help.

The problem I am running into is that ever so often the re-circulation process stops and my water gets cold. I can reset the tub and get things working by turning down the thermostat below the current temperature then retuning it the desired setting. I can also get it to reset by simply walking towards the hot tub with any testing equipment. I am new to tubs but anybody that fixes stuff understands the intermittent nature of things and why we call machines girls. My guess is that I may have a problem with a flow sensing switch but more likely the circ pump is weak. I have heard the circ pump make a little noise twice but it was a short moment and barely audible over the ambient noise.
Can the circ pump be rebuilt? Any parts lists online? The local dealer won’t let me look at there parts list. I am not sure they are smarter then a box of rocks, but they have the dealership. At some point the problem will go from intermittent to permanent. As it is now cold here in Michigan I am hoping that it lasts into next summer.


Offline
 Profile E-mail  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 Page 1 of 1 [ 6 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
AeroBlue: John Olson
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group