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 Post subject: 2003 Cal Spas - 1500 Electronic 450 Gallon
PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2004 7:02 pm 
New Spa - 3 months old - replacement for 15 year old spa, so have some experience on usage and costs - Controls only allow to turn off/on pump and light or set temp. Instruction manual says will cycle on twice a day for filtering, two hours each time. Running 220V and electric bill has doubled since spa installed - keep at 100 as we usually use once a day. Unit goes on and off to heat 2 or 3 times while in spa for 20 minutes. Question 1. - can I program the unit to have a greater temp range than 1 degree (digital control) and Q-2, Would filtering once a day for 2 hours be enough, Q-3 should I just install a 220 timer and program on and off time with that unit?


  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am
Posts: 1406
Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
Well, now to say that your electric bill has doubled since you installed the spa is a little strange.

So if you've got an average bill of $100 per month, it's now up to $200?

To actually prove this, you'd need to put a meter all alone on the spa to accurately measure the true kwh useage.

Question 1. - can I program the unit to have a greater temp range than 1 degree (digital control).

No, unfortunately this is hard coded into the firmware on the board. Mfgr's are quite proud of their software to keep the spa within a very accurate temperature range.

Question 2. - Would filtering once a day for 2 hours be enough.
No. Under the best of circumstances, twice a day for 2 hours each is the lowest that anyone would and could reasonably recommend.

Q-3. should I just install a 220 timer and program on and off time with that unit?
Well, if you want to, you could. But it would need to be a separate box with a 50 amp contactor controlling L1 and L2 to the tub. That said, it is entirely impractical to do it this way, unless of course you're only using it twice a week.

And if that's the case, then I'd just turn off the remote disconnect after you're finished using it for the day, and then turn it back on the day before you want to use it again. Then check your electric bill after doing this for a month to see if it really made a difference.

Yeah that doesn't sound like too great of an option, but I think if you were to accurately measure the true power useage of the spa itself, you might find it's less of a culprit than you think. Of course I could be all out to lunch too! :oops: It's happened before.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2004 6:42 pm 
OK - I will give you credit for challenging my 'double' statement - but a very significant increase over months that were in my own mind comparable usage (central heat and air not being used) .

Lastest item of interest - I turned off the main breaker for twelve hours and the temp dropped 1 degree when I turned back on. However, the heat/pump are cycling on for 3 minutes or so and then off 3 minutes - repeating as long as we are in the spa for 20 minutes. Outside temp about 55. in AM - no air running thru the aerators. I will be calling my dealer to see if I have moved into some sort of default mode (even after powering off and on a few times) that would cause the spa to cycle so often. On powerup - goes thru check and none of the 3 possible error codes are displayed.


  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2004 6:56 pm 
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Well, you know... I tell ya, it's quite reasonable for the heater to kick in when you're using it. But it's another if it keeps doing it constantly when you're out of the spa. I mean, 20 minutes of heating, even if it's running full time during the 20 mins is nothing.

What I'd look for, is when you're not using it.

Then if it really seems to be playing coy.... never turning on when you're out of the tub, then I would actually start turning the main power off in the evening, then going back out and turning it back on in the morning, making note of the water temperature after turning it back on. I'd be suprised if the water temp dropped more than 6-7 degrees in 12 hours. (With the top on of course). Try it like that and see what happens too.

Matter of fact, try it for a month and see what happens with your elex bill. I really wasn't joking about that. I mean, without a meter or someone there to sit and record on and off times you don't have much of a choice.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2004 6:15 pm 
OK - and thanks. I have twice turned the main breaker off...and with about a 70 degree day - lost 1 - 2 degrees - turning the temp down to 80.. for 80 hours...I lost 9 degrees. I will get a book out and spend about 2 hours next to one day....just to see if it will be turning off and on.

Thanks again!


  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2004 6:17 pm 
Sorry - lost 1 or 2 degrees in 12 hours.


  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2004 6:45 pm 
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Yeah... see this is where the rub comes... even my old circa 1985 Morgan spa keeps the water warm without heat almost forever. (Seems like it anyway). When we lost electricity in the winter for 3-4 days I never had to worry because the water temp would only get down to about 70 during that time.

So the real bear here... is the amount and frequency of heating that is occuring during the tub's static time. Heck, getting down 1-2 degees in 12 hours means that the heater SHOULD only run about once or twice during the 12, plus the filter cycle etc. If it's doing it a lot more often than this, then that's where the problem's gonna be.

Now, do you know if this tub has an additional circulation pump? Or is it using the jet pump on low speed for this?



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 10:39 am 
According to CalSpa - one of those 5 HP 145 T Frame 5.0 H.P. Pump -

Switchless-less™ Motor Technology Design
Each speed is completely independent. The Switch-less™ design eliminates switch contacts completely, resulting in a 4-winding motor with each speed having its own start and run winding without the need to do any switching by contacts. It’s like having 2 motors in the same enclosure yet not sharing any components except the shaft and bearings.

Reliability
Exclusive design. Superior performance and reliability.
Lower in Rush Amps
As low as 10 amps on low speed start-up. Longer relay life.
Ultra Seal System
Carbon seal with rubber viton Dupont product. More chemical resistance. Stronger water flow.
145-T Frame
The largest motor frame in the industry

blah...blah....blah.....


Bottom Line - I will contact the dealer to voice my concern and have a techy come out to verify correct operation....

Thanks for all your help


  
 
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