First off WOW am I glad I found you folks after searching the net for hours on end!!! OK I've got an old Fountan Valley spa looks to me as it was up graded mid 90's. It worked great 5yrs then I lost heat last year. After calling around the spa runaround, Oh sorry not our spa or yeh we'll be happy to look at it 4 u $$$$ I live 1hr awawy$$$$$. I researched your Spa Babes pages ! Allright, Pump runs, press sysm. button light on & heat light on no light at heat elem. junction. Tested P. sw., 0 ohms w/pump low, Heat elem., 9.5 ohms, Limit sw. 0 ohms. GFI kills whole system w/test. Looked at control curcuit board naturally Manf. print on Back it is a Catalina Controlls RC4pa P/N 60520??. 12 termination conections the last being burned that leads to K5 relay who's function I'm not sure & contacts are burned but not chared, look fileable. Tagged all leads while removing, the conection from term. 12 to K5 is burned a little wire solder I can get that back up. I'm not sure if the relay is good(Resistance Test ?) Porter & Brumfeild T90 or if I can get a suitable replacement. I am trying to find schematics as there were wires with factory tag 8 going to term. 9 (weird) and the 6 wire spider legged lookin power jumper needs replaced. Boy I'm long winded! Sorry!! HELP!!

Need some more information.
This is a Fountain Valley spa that was upgraded and it's got an RC4 control installed.

1. What kind of an electric heater does it have? Plastic housing? Stainless steel straight through type?

2. Is the wire for the heater element going directly to pins 11 or 12, or does it go to a separate contactor or relay? (I'm guessing it goes straight to the heater - euw! )

Btw, line 12 on the board (k5 relay) is normally assigned to the heater, so it's a good possibility the relay just isn't doing to well now. If you remove the cover from the relay (of course with the power turned off), put your ohm meter between pins 11 and 12, the press down on the armature of the relay (the spring thingy), you should get next to zero ohms. Anything more than this, or if it gives you infinity for a reading, then that particular circuit loop is bad on the board.

The RC-4 (as well as it's subsequent replacements), all use an input-output type of scheme for each relay to the terminal strip. You can see what I'm talking about by taking a look at this pdf diagram of the replacement BL-40:
http://www.alliedinnovations.com/pdf/bl-40ts.pdf

The jumpers are necessary to get primary power from one device to the other. Pretty simple system, eg: Pump 1 low input, Pump 1 low output, Blower input, Blower output. What that's telling you is that both the pump 1 input, and the blower input may be tied together so that the blower can get power from the same place as the pump does.

See if you can do that check on the relay circuit and post back.

Thanks.

Hey you folks are HOT thanks for get'in back so quick will test and post back. Oh PVC heat housing staight thru, no blower motor, belive it was upgraded cause control panel on top (with broken off knob) cable is cut off close to control. Other evidence lotsa soldered joints with shabby elec. tape job andcontrol is mounted in weather tight box with lead curcuits real short.Contacts are burned on the Ibelieve NC. side(bottom) same as the relay next to it. K4 is'nt burned and no other evidence of damage. Ok taked this ol dude alot longer to type than test so I did 0.2 ohms. Had to go from 11 to to back of card where I got it scrathed back down to the curcuit. How about the coil resitance? Oh tried that link the only 1 lets me in is 20 & 20pt er whatever.

So, you had to test the relay from the back of the board?

If it's good there, and not good at the terminal strip 11 to 12, then the board's gotta be repaired with solid copper wire.


Here's a partial clip of the manual in case you can't see it on Allied's website.

Hey thanks for the schematic that helps alot. Here again your Johnny on the spot back with a reply absolutly the quickest support I've ever received! Tell the boss I said GIVE THIS MAN A RAISE !!!Hope I can find one for the control panel its a 4 button with dial heat control should also be a 92 yr catalina model then I can test out the heat control. Was still wondering why the contacts on K5 would burn in the NO position Hope its not the heat control. Umm volt spike, not enough current, to much K5 coil resistance, aspiders guts got squished in there? I really need to find the fault before I try to put it back in service! I've played this game on Abrams tanks reair a card plug it in it smokes again well you know what I mean. Must find cause of the fault. Wow did I say that backwards? Well anyway thanks agin!!!!