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 Post subject: chasing gremlins, time for new pack?
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2005 1:49 pm 

Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2005 1:26 pm
Posts: 3
Location: n. aurora, il
Hi all,
I've been chasing some gremlins and wanted to get your opinions as to whether it was time to get a new spa pack.

spa details:
99 Jacuzzi Echo, 230v.
Balboa controller, topside thermostat, single button controls two speed pump. Flow through heater.

Gremlin details:


The GFCI trips intermittently (~ 1 time/month); it's done this since last year.

But recently it developed a new fault mode, the heater LED on the control panel stays on and blinks every couple of seconds, but the motor doesn't run (and hence, no more hot water). First couple times I found it like this, I was able to start the motor from the control panel and the heater would work.

Then recently the button on the control panel stopped working and the tub is stuck in the blinking LED mode. I found that turing off the GFCI for several minutes would bring the motor back on. It's current state is that the tub is heating but the motor button is un responsive.

I haven't checked the output controller button yet.

I'm wondering if since this is a 6 year old spa, I should just replace the whole spa pack (motor and controller) or whether in your wisened opinoins it was worth chasing this further? I've read online that 6 years is about the usefull service life of a pack?

thanks in advance!
Ken


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 9:11 pm 

Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2005 1:26 pm
Posts: 3
Location: n. aurora, il
well even though it seemed I had misc gremlins, I decideTd to take them in order. The button on my topside controller was dead, so I replaced the controller.

(If you're not comfortable working around 220v don't try what is below. If you measure any voltage on a live box, only hold the probes in one hand. If you use two hands and get across the 220 the current will be going through you chest, instead of just your hand)

The tub ran fine for a week, then today I found the heater was staying on with the pump off (felt very hot water coming from the inactive jets). The LED blinked as before, but the motor wouldn't come on. Then after about a minute there would be a click, heater goes off, and tub motor started working again.

So I took the cover off the control box and found that one contactor was stuck on ( there were 5 contactors, 4 positioned one way, the fifth stuck the other way). I was able to unstick it with my dvm probe. I cycled the heat several times and it didn't re-stick.

The stuck contactor is the one that powers the heater, so the heater would stay on after the pump turned off, then I guess the high limit switch would kick in and reset the system.

So now I'm trying to find out if I can order a new contactor. I can resolder one in if need be. I'm also wondering if the existing one can be cleaned.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 5:17 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Albert Lea, MN
some success may be had by taking a fine emery cloth or a similar abrasive and polishing the contacts. What happens is that the relays aren't designed for large resistive loads (your heater) and over time impurities in the metals and the air around the contacts themselves will start to cause arcing and pitting on the contacts. Soon you will have a welding issue, resulting in a stuck relay. If you can polish the contacts well enough, you can often restore them to operational status. You may have to do this from time to time.

For replacing the relays (I believe you have the open case design, where the coil and the contacts are redily accessable) I haven't searched for replacements, however you can try Digikey or Newark Electronics. Another thing to try is contact spa dealers since they often have defective boards that you can salvage parts from. If you only have one pump, you could take the relay from the pump 2 spot and swap it. Otherwise keep an eye on Ebay for balboa boards that are untested or unknown origin, I picked up my "spare" (for the very same reason) for around $15 bucks.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2005 12:04 am 

Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2005 1:26 pm
Posts: 3
Location: n. aurora, il
For those that may follow:

I replaced the relay. I took the board out and got the relay number, then ordered another from Newark. Relay was $1.50, but they had a min. order of $25, so I've got 17 spares now.

Lot of soldier to remove on the board, but got it off with an iron and a soldier sucker. Board runs fine now.

I'm now back to my original gremlin, about once a month the GFI trips...


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