I got a used Dimension One Spas, California Ultra model with Balboa Electronic Spa Controls. Says standard digital system on the control pad. Circuit board in the box says PN 27600 revision 1C. Has one pump. Appears that there is a pump lo (circulation I assume) and pump high (jets I assume) by looking at the circuit board. Wired everything up and the display shows "FLO" - "COOL" - "50F" but nothing circulates and the heater light does not illuminate (as I expected???). Baybe I don't know how to operate this thing. I can set the temp up & down and the setting changes with the arrows but it still goes back to the display mentioned above and nothing happens. The jets will come on when I push the jets button. Again, the display continues to show the same display mentioned above. I figured with the jets on that the heater would come on since it is circulating but I got no voltage across the heater element terminals. With the circuit breaker off and the heater element disconnected, I do get continuity so I think the element is okay. When I look at the respective switches on the circuit board, I can see (and hear) them actuate when I hit the jets (pump hi), light, blower buttons. The pump lo switch doesn't ever seem to move. So....bottom line is no heat on pump hi, no circulation (and no heat) on what I think should be pump low. Fuses in the box also checked out okay.

Ok, that's one heck of a great spa...

1. Do you know how old this thing is?
2. Is there a separate small circulation pump (painted red Laing Pump) in the equip enclosure? (it'll be at the bottom middle of the enclosure). ... or...
3. does this thing have a rather large controller box below, and only one jet pump, no obvious circulation pump...

btw, who on earth would let you have this thing? Good used D1's are a tough find.

1. The date I found on some part of the controls (can't remember where) was 1992 so I assume that's probably about when it was built.
2. Found no sign of any circulation pump.
3. Looks like one large pump on the right side and a large controller panel enclosure on the left. The heater and flow switch/sensor is down low behind the panel enclosure. Again, no obvious circulation pump.

Surfed the web last night and found a fairly general service manual on the Balboa web site. It indicated that the flashing "FLO" was most likely a malfunction in the pressure switch. Guess what....I find no pressure switch in the plumbing. Also don't see a connection for one on the circuit board (or their diagram of the board that was in their manual). The diagram of the standard board in their manual looked close but mine definitely has more relay switches. Their manual also mentioned something about a jumper for the pump(s) (to set as a one or two pump system). I looked at my circuit board and found no jumper (and no where to put one) but did find some tiny switches in that general area. Didn't mess with those. I think my circuit board is more out of date than what was shown in the manual.

The service manual also mentioned the flashing "FLO" may be a faulty flow switch/sensor but I think that if there is no low circulation flow then the switch/sensor isn't going to matter. However, I did expect the heater to work with the pump on high which it doesn't. I did take that a little further by shutting of the breaker & disconnecting the flow switch. I tried jumping the terminals once and also leaving it disconnected. Under one of those circumstances (I think when it was jumped but I can't remember for sure) the jets would only come on for a few seconds then it would shut down. So...I think the flow switch is doing something.

Maybe this tub doesn't have a low (circulation) speed????

Maybe the flow switch/sensor is also a pressure sensor????

Got this tub from a lady that got a new tub and wanted this one to be gone. I think she has had some trouble with it in the past and what I'm trying to fix may have been the last straw. I see the date on the pump motor was 2003 so I know she replaced that not too long ago.

The Ozone generator stuff is disconnected and part of it seems to be missing. Will it be worth it to get that part working again?

Thanks for your help on this!

Ahhh, you've got the Crystal-Pure system that uses an air pressure circulation pump instead of a water type pump. This is quite a unique and extremely efficient system that D1 used for many years. A lot of people don't like them because they're a little difficult to understand, but if it's taken care of, this thing will last forever.

This system uses a very small flow switch that is mounted BEHIND the control box. There will be a small grey wire that leads from the controller that runs to it.

When this system is in operation, you should be able to hear the sound of an air pump (like an aquarium pump), and if you open up the filter cavity on the right side top, you should see thousands of bubbles coming up in the middle of the filter cavity. This air pressure creates a positive pressure inside the cavity and the water will naturally flow at the rate of 6 GPM through the heater. At the very bottom of this filter cavity, (down at the bottom of the 1.5" filter pipe), there is a diffuser bulb that is also needed to help create this bubble action. It is accessed by a 2' long plastic tube approximately 1" in diameter. If the person that had the spa didn't give this tool to you, then you need to see if she's still go it.

Where most of these things fail is the air pump, which is mounted on the door of the control box. It's whats in the bottom section of the image above. That version above is called an Apollo air pump. Two years ago, D1 stopped using this pump and went back to their original tuning fork design pump because of less maintenance and rebuilding hassle.

Now if this pump is not running, or there isn't an airtight path between the pump, all the way to the filter cavity, then you will always receive the flow error and subsequently, no heat. Yes, the heater works directly off of this thing and is not connected to any kind of water pump. It is strictly air driven.

Below is what the filter cavity should look like with the air pump running.. if you don't see a ton of air bubbles in this, then you'll have the flow error and no heat:

Take a look at your system, and see what you've got. Post back here what you find.

Thanks.

The above is a quick basic diagram of how this system works. It should help you to figure out what's going on here.

That is pretty much what my system looks like. I plugged in the air pump and it makes noise like it's working but I got no bubbles in the filter cavity. Disconnected the air line at the air pump and it feels like the air pump is moving air. Couldn't blow through the air line leading to the filter cavity so I think it's plugged or kinked. I was able to remove the diffuser at the bottom of the filter cavity with a piece of rubber hose that fit over it. It looks clean and I'm able to blow through it with no problem. Any recommendations for accessing the air line running to the filter cavity? I think I need to remove the spa skirting to gain access or maybe drain the tub and remove the filter cavity housing (looks like it's held in with plastic screws)???

Based on the diagram you posted, the ozonator is missing from my system and the air line is going directly to the filter cavity. I don't think this is a problem as far as the circulation & heat goes.

Again, Thanks for all your help.

Alright, now... lemme tell you ...

This particular situation is a rare one.

But there is a solution, and it's about the only one that I've ever come up with that actually works. And unless the D1 folks or some other tech that has dealt with it can come up with something better, it's the one that I'll stick with.

The last time I did this, I used an air pump, something similar to an electric paint sprayer pump with a regulator, or one of those auto tire pumps.... (NOT A commercial compressor!).

Install the tapered slip fitting that comes with the air pump, and fit it into the end of the 1/4" hose that goes to the filter. Pump away. I had to keep this up for quite a while - while tons of black crap finally started loosening up from wherever it was and blowing itself into the spa from the heater discharge fitting.

I'd say it took about half an hour. The maximum pressure that I used on the thing was somewhere between 10-15 psi. Anything more than that I was concerned about blowing off the clear plastic hose from the filter. If you want, you can try this, but you'll have to be prepared to cut into the white plastic internal skirt housing on the right to get to the filter if it blows off.

Short of cutting into the cavity, I would try the air pressure. It has worked for me a couple of times that I've needed to do it. If you try this, be sure that you remove the diffuser bulb... once it starts to blow clear, let it keep going until everything that comes out of the heater discharge is like... outta there!

By the way, don't even think of wasting your breath trying to blow it out. The most you'll be able to exert is somewhere between .75-2 psi, and that ain't much. Oh yeah, the reason why this probably happened, is because the person that owned it, (or the tech that worked on it), got rid of the ozonator! The ozonator is what prevents this kind of situation from happening in the first place.

Ok doke, use this info at your own risk and let me know how it works, whatever you decide to do.

Thanks.

PS: Don't even try to remove that filter from the top of the cavity. You can't do it as it's plumbed in permanently from the bottom. It's either a skirt removal job, or go in from inside the equipment cabinet.

I hooked up my little 12V air compressor and was able to get some air through the thing and the bubbles flowing. I let it run for about 7-8 minutes. Didn't get any noticeable debris out. So I put the cover back on the filter cavity and left my compressor hooked up. Then I turned on the breaker and lo-and-behold, after a few seconds the heater light came on! Switched back over to the tub compressor and let it run for a few minutes but no heat. Removed the filter cavity cover and had some bubbles coming through but not near what I see in your picture. I think I have a weak tub air compressor or there may still be some restriction in the line. Any idea as to what kind of pressure that system normally operates at? The gauge I have wouldn't give me a reading off of the tub compressor (It's only good for about 5 psi or above).

So....What I thought was a control problem really wasn't!

Thanks again!

Ok.. Yes, if your air pump looks like the Apollo pump I pictured above, I highly recommend you replace it!

Now just think... for a sec...

1. Why was the ozonator removed.
2. Why was the air pump disconnected?

It's because whomever worked on it didn't understand the system. (You probably got a great deal $$$$ on this spa because of it!)

This may or may not reflect the current air pump that is carried in stock, but whatever you receive if ordered, will work with yours:
http://spapartsnet.com/Spa-Pumps/Air-Pu ... 4_0_1.html

Additionally, it would be the most judicious solution for you to install the ozonator that was originally designed for this system. For this, please call us at 1-866-364-9681, and ask for a Dimension One Pressurized Ozonator.

Well thanks for posting your results as you've found the problem that was stopping this $6500 spa from working. Once you've got these two very critical items replaced, pat yourself on the back!

That is one heck of an energy efficient tub! (probably the best imo)

Hmm... tell me what you paid for it now ok? And send me a picture of your installation of this hot tub. (image91 @ spanet.net)

Thanks!

Well....I left the spa running overnight and when I got up this morning, the temp was up to 69F and the heater light was still on! So the air pump is probably borderline at the moment. It is the wishbone type that you mentioned before. I'll replace it if I have any more problems. I'll definitely add the ozonator in the next couple weeks.

So....The lady just wanted the tub to be gone and the guys that tried to get the tub the week before I got it couldn't figure out how to get it out of the her yard. It needed to be tipped up on its side and weaseled through an opening in the fence with about an inch to spare on each side then down the hill to the street. Only had myself, my brother, and a good friend to move this thing and that's the heaviest hot tub I've ever had to deal with. I've never been one to give up on anything so I went downtown and rounded up 4 laborers to help get it moved out of the lady's back yard and onto my trailer. Paid them $10 a piece....SCORE!!! After that, just the cost for the electrical stuff to get it hooked up. Since my brother set the deal up, I'm sure I'll send a few bucks his way. I'll try to send you some digital pic's of the installation today or tomorrow. It also came with a cover that looked like it was maybe a year old!

I don't think I would ever have figured this out without your help. Thanks again for everything!