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 Post subject: Nordic Crown with Gecko pack light won't work
PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 6:21 pm 

Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:36 am
Posts: 10
Location: Raynham, MA
So I was given a spa. (Amazing how many of these posts start with this line)

The light did not work. However, the electronic control panel light indicator show's the light is on.

I changed the bulb (automotive dome light # 912)

Still doesn't work.

I haven't busted out the multimeter yet to determine if there is voltage in the socket (Assumption of this action, everything works, it's just that a previous owner may have tried replacing the bulb with an automotive bulb, which won't work because it *might* be a different design. If this is true, how would I find the "correct" bulb)

What else could it be? Are there fuses or something I can look for? Inside the Pack?

If the multimeter expedition doesn't pan out, I'll probably clip the zip tie that the coil of control wires, and tub light is tied up with, and try look for broken/bad looking wire.

Anyone got some good advice?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 12:19 am 
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The light power output on a spa or hot tub should normally measure 12 Volts AC. (Don't measure with your meter set on dc).

Just track it all the way back to the controller. Many systems will have a board level (soldered in) fuse for the light bulb. It's done like this to prevent a lighting short from shutting down the entire transformer output - which would shut down the controller.

Look for it, you may find it...
Cheers.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 5:43 am 

Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:36 am
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Location: Raynham, MA
Pageup wrote:
The light power output on a spa or hot tub should normally measure 12 Volts AC. (Don't measure with your meter set on dc).


Does this mean that a DC bulb (which the automotive bulb is) won't work? Do I need special Spa bulbs?

Mike


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:17 am 
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Any light bulb will work, however a standard automotive bulb may have burned out the fuse since they are usually rated higher than 12 watts which is the normal maximum load that the light circuit is rated for.

What spa and hot tub lights use, are the 'lawn lights'... the small light bulbs you can get for putting into your decorative light fixtures - you find them at a place that sells lawn decorative lighting. They come in 4, 7, and 11 watt sizes typically in packages of 3.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:09 pm 

Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:36 am
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Location: Raynham, MA
Pageup wrote:
Many systems will have a board level (soldered in) fuse for the light bulb. I


Ok.

Still don't have my multimeter (It's at work)

I opened up the spa pack. There is in fact a soldered in fuse. I couldn't get a good look at it (It was dusk) to tell if it was blown.

if it is blown, is it fixable? Soldered in sounds.... Well... Permanate, as I'm screwed. I don't think I could even get an Iron in there to change the fuse, never mind wonder if I have a steady enough hand to actually do it.

Not sure I want to try and pay the Spa guy $125 to fix it, assuming he will even try.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 4:49 pm 

Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:36 am
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Location: Raynham, MA
Ok, so I went and got a 4watt light.

It doesn't work.

Plug the multimeter into the bulb base. No Voltage.

I kill the power to the tub, open up the spa pack, and test continuity on the lightbulb wiring harness. No problems there, the wiring is good.

It's a SSPA-1 Spa Pack from Gecko. There are 3 fuses. All have 0 ohms of resistance. So they are good.

Didn't quite have the cajones to try and get a multimeter reading off the light stud's with the power to the spa on, so I'm pronouncing it broke.

Not really up to replacing the spa-pack just for a light.

Is it possible to just wire up the 12V 4w light to a 12volt latern battery, with a waterproof switch mounted on the outside of the Tub?

Is this horrible stupid, or not a bad idea?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:25 pm 
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I'd just leave it be. Perhaps the relay that controls the bulb is burned out.

4 watts on a 12 volt lantern battery isn't going to go very far... but a car battery it would last a while..



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 7:48 pm 
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http://spapartsnet.com/Electrical-Parts ... 8_0_1.html
http://spapartsnet.com/Electrical-Parts ... 3_1_1.html
http://spapartsnet.com/Air-Buttons/951590_374_1_1.html

or
http://spapartsnet.com/Lighting-Illumin ... 8_1_1.html
with the air button would do ok...



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:08 pm 

Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:36 am
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Location: Raynham, MA
Pageup wrote:


I'll look to see if the Relay (the first one you listed looks like the relay's on the board) is easily removable. I think this is a "fat chance", but worth looking at.

I found a SSPA1 service manual. It mentions a F3 fuse for the light. My pack does not have a F3 fuse visible. Is it possible it might be on the back side of the circuit board? I also think this is a "fat chance".

Last question, where would the light kit linked above get 115 V of power from? Not too keen on running a electric cord to an outlet. (All kinds of nightmare scenarios with power and water are running thru my mind as I type this)


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:10 pm 
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I believe F3 is buried under the edge of the power transformer.

You'll probably have to pull the board to see it.



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