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 Post subject: Hot Spring Classic internal breaker tripping after 2-3hrs
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 12:12 am 
Hi All,

I have an older model hot springs classic.......the spa will heat up for about 2-3 hours and then the internal breaker on the controller trips.Everything elses seems to be working fine. The spa is connected to a proper 120vac 20 amp independent circuit. I am assuming that the heater element is faulty? but this is my first spa and I am learning (guessing) as I go. I am an electrician and I am very handy at fixing things....I just need to be steered in the right direction.

Many thanks for any and all help:>)


Benjamin


  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 10:49 am 
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Would help to have a few more details. You say an internal 'breaker' was tripping. I'm assuming you mean the high limit (over temperature) switch? or is it a push button (real breaker) thing installed in the control?

If it's the latter, I'd be willing to bet you that the wires attached to this are almost fried, and the connections have overheated to the point to where the breaker overheats from the connections while in operation. This happens quite often on older spas with those small panel mounted breakers installed.

If it's the former, it might be time to replace the high limit switch if the heater cannister isn't hot to the touch. They do wear out.

Either way, you're going to have to open it up and take a look see. First rule of troubleshooting is a visual inspection to see 'wot's goin on in heya!' :)

The charred, smoked and burned stuff makes it real easy!



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 11:36 am 
Hi and thanks for the reply!

There is a small red push button on the inside of the control panel......this button is built into the controller and all wiring is inside the controler chassis. ....is this the hi limit switch?When the button is out all power to the spa is cut. After the unit cools down it will press in again and operate.....but only for a short time unless it has all cooled down. It's hard to tell if it's related to the temperature of the water/heater or the actual ambient temperature of the control unit itself.

I saw another post about this type of watkins side control panel.........looks like a real bugger to get out.

So should my first step be to remove the control unit and open it up?

Thanks again for your help!
Benjamin


  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 11:40 am 
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Actually, I'd first suspect, that the heater is really getting hot since it's the actual high limit switch. You'll need to determine if the heater casing is hot. If it is, then your problem is most likely related to not enough water flow going through it. If so, then the small circulation pump has something in it that's making it clog up, or it's just getting too old for the job.

Start with that first... then on the he hard stuff like pulling the control box etc...



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 Post subject: small circulation pump casing very hot
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 11:28 pm 
I checked the temperature of the heater casing right after the latest high limit trip and it does not appear to be hot to the touch..........however I found what I think to be the small circulation pump you spoke of and the housing on that was extraemly hot to the touch.......should it be?

Thanks again for the help!
Benjamin


  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 11:42 pm 
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Yeah well, as long as the circulation pump is actually pumping water, being hot to touch is normal; (be sure you can see water etc moving because it's supposed to be pumping it through the system!).

hmmm... Sounds like your high limit switch isn't doing what it should on this hot tub if the heater casing isn't hot.

How old is this spa?



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 Post subject: old as dirt:>)
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 11:50 pm 
I believe it is a late 80's-early 90's model.........in other words.......old :cry:


  
 
 Post subject: Old?
PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2004 12:21 am 
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that's actually a good thing.

Old means easy to fix, and figure out when other advanced analytical means fail from the sideline.

I'd just get out that hi limit switch that keeps tripping and replace it.. then go from there. It all needs replacing eventually, and that hot tub is not too expensive to keep up. It's just a dog when it comes to pulling the controller guts from the inside out! (lol, backwards, upside down, and dang it they actually put a screw in the corner of this thing!?!?!!?!)



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 Post subject: watkins service manuals / schematics?
PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2004 11:49 am 
I guess my next step is to get some kind of schematic so I actually know what's in there..........while I have it out I want to take care of any and all wear items........do you have any other suggestions on things I should replace while it's apart.

I post back after I get into the controller and see whats happening.

BTW......thanks for your quick and infomative replies....you must have worked on many a spa :D


  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2004 12:12 pm 
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Actually, if I were you, I'd limit the repair to the specific item and leave the rest alone, unless you see that something is amiss.

A quick note about the old Hot Springs Classic Tubs... These are probably the most durable, longest lasting hot tubs when it comes to the control box and heater ever built. They're quite simple, which means less to break. Even the heater elements they put in those things seem to be nothing less than 'bulletproof', even with 15+ years of useage.

Pulling the control box from the inside out seems to be a bit of a chore initially - But once you've done it, the next time around it's not such a big deal.

About the schematic? Nada. But when you pull the box you could draw one on a piece of paper in about 15 minutes. 8)



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