A Classic No Power. I have a older Hotsprings Classic that is deader than a doornail.
Replaced my main motor, had some seal issues, stopped the leaks, etc. Then I powered it up and it ran fine but then died. I fried the hot wire insulation (only) from the GFI to the source so I suspected the GFI failed and replaced it. It was an old GFI, and I might have been cycling the pump on/off too fast to prime the jets, etc. Now I have no indications of power to the tub, no click when I shut the door, no action on the tub reset. So I am attacking my circuit board assembly. Four questions; 1) Is there a trick to getting the circuit box out with the lamp assembly attached, will that work, or do I need to dissamble it? 2) when I get inside the box, will there be a replaceable fuse? 3) If no fuse, will I, should I be able to find and replace the tub reset. 4) or did I fry the board?

Thanks.

Since it appears you have a door interlock, rather than attacking the control box right away, you might first want to try re-setting both of the reset buttons located on the side of the control box. They can only be tripped automatically, once in the reset postion, it seems as though they do nothing. Try pushing them both, if either one "clicks" close the door, and see if you have power. Take note of which one clicks, and post back

Neither one clicks, they both appear to be stuck in the "in" position, they can be pulled out, but it makes no difference. They are as dead as the tub is...

PS I have never seen the reset nearest to the door tripped, and since the label is gone, I am unsure as to what that one even protects?

Yes, there is a trick. Turn theromstat and light knobs to the off positions. Remove the front control panel with the knobs.


Once the control panel is off, there's four screws that hold the black box to the bracket. All the wires/plugs that plug into the control box only fit in their respective female sockets. You can't screw it up. The copper bonding wires can attach to any of the lugs. Remove the bonding wires and plugs prior to taking out the last screw, it's just easier that way. There's two white extenders on the thermostat and the light dimmer. It's best to turn the thermostat and dimmer all the way to the left(off position) before taking off the extenders. Set those with the control panel. Also locate the thermostat and High Limit capilary tubes( they go into a dry well). Don't kink them because fluid flows through them. Once you locate where they go into the dry well you can pull on the capilary tube and they'll come out of the drywell.

The high limit closest to the door represents the "heater high limit"
When it trips, it usually means the water inside the heater has overheated, and tripped the high limit. It usually means the heater is functioning properly, but the circ pump flow is too low, usually because of a clogged filter, air bubble in the circ pump, or broken circ pump.
There are other possible reasons, but 1st, check that little 24 hour circ pump for proper operation, then we'll go from there.
If it's a really old tub, the circ pump *might* be thermostatically energized, rather than 24 hours a day, so keep that in mind while testing

It's FIXED!! I tested the GFI out with another device and it turns out the GFI was dead out of the box, replaced and hooked up my plugs etc, and away we go. It's now at 104 and ready for my return! I really appreciate your help, but I am glad it's over and looking forward to a nice relaxing soak....

Thanks again.