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 Post subject: Overflow on spa, now heater trips GFCI
PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 11:18 am 

Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 11:10 am
Posts: 3
Location: Columbus Ohio
Well, I started to top off my spa and forgot about it. 9 hours later, things we're pretty wet. This happend 4 days ago. Now the GFCI trips when the heater turns on. Pump and blower work fine.

I tried using a hair dryer last night and still no luck. I am worried to let it sit to much longer as it is getting cold here in central Ohio.

Through reading this forum, a few have mentioned some test to do when something like this happens. Could someone give me a little guidence on what to check and how. I have a small Multimeter that will do resistance to 4M ohm.

This is a Cal Spa unit from a while back, late 80's maybe.

Thanks for any help,
Jeremie


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 1:06 pm 

Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 11:10 am
Posts: 3
Location: Columbus Ohio
I have been doing some more forum searching and noticed in another post that someone said even if you have the temperature on "OFF" the heater would still draw juice. If this is correct then I need to clarify the above.

Everything runs fine when the temp is in OFF. As I turn it to warm, and you hit that spot that turns the heater on, that is when the GFCI trips. So could it be the part that it labeled on the control box as SWITCH or FLOW (Not sure which one, I am going by memory).

Thanks,
Jeremie


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:55 am 

Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 11:10 am
Posts: 3
Location: Columbus Ohio
I thought I would add a few pictures. Maybe these can help someone help me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeremie


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pic3.JPG
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 9:50 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:50 am
Posts: 921
Location: SW Florida
Am I looking at 2 seperate heaters?



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 6:21 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Albert Lea, MN
Swine,

Looks to me like the second (bottom) picture is of a current collector, not a heater. The heater looks to be behind the control. IMO

The test is that of the heater element, and you do so by removing both wires and isolating them (tape them off) so they don't come into contact with anything. Then try adjusting the temperature. If the breaker now holds, your element is in need of replacement.

I would wager that the overfill and the heater going out (if that is the case) happened at the same time by chance.



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ATTENTION! USE THE ADVISE ON THIS FORUM WISELY! WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR INJURIES, DEATH, DAMAGE, ETC. ARISING FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION IN THIS FORUM!

NOTE: I can't guarentee knowledge of all spas.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:50 am
Posts: 921
Location: SW Florida
Wow, a second and seperate current collector.... alrighty:?

But anyway- Listen to Charger- remove the cover of the control box, and remove BOTH heater leads. You can't unplug the heater like the other components. Good luck, let us know the results!



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 9:13 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Albert Lea, MN
Quote:
Wow, a second and seperate current collector.... alrighty:?

Yea I found it strange to, but if I had to wager a guess, It would be that the spa had been upgraded to the spa pack at one point in it's life. Prolly had a really old style heater and control system at one point and they just left the collector in. I would guess that since the really old style used 2 collectors, one was removed and the spa pack spliced into it's place. Be really easy seeing as it has the proper type of nuts on the collector, same as a heater tube.



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ATTENTION! USE THE ADVISE ON THIS FORUM WISELY! WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR INJURIES, DEATH, DAMAGE, ETC. ARISING FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION IN THIS FORUM!

NOTE: I can't guarentee knowledge of all spas.
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