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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 3:35 pm 

Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:14 pm
Posts: 9
Will Try... Will post pictures this afternoon...

Thanks


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 Post subject: Try Again
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 6:30 pm 

Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:14 pm
Posts: 9
Here they are


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File comment: Heater
Heater Spa_edited-1.jpg
Heater Spa_edited-1.jpg [ 61.17 KB | Viewed 60 times ]
File comment: Circuit Board
cir BoardOpen_edited-1.jpg
cir BoardOpen_edited-1.jpg [ 102.65 KB | Viewed 61 times ]
File comment: Circuit Board Cover
Cir Board Cover_edited-1.jpg
Cir Board Cover_edited-1.jpg [ 68.08 KB | Viewed 60 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 6:38 pm 

Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:14 pm
Posts: 9
More

Do you know what kind of heater this is? It measures 15" long and in 2" around it has no name on it now but has a sticker that reads 6000watts... What is the best to replace it with?


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File comment: Ozone
Ozonator Spa_edited-1 copy 2.jpg
Ozonator Spa_edited-1 copy 2.jpg [ 63.29 KB | Viewed 53 times ]
File comment: Circulation/jet motor
CirMotorSpa_edited-1.jpg
CirMotorSpa_edited-1.jpg [ 60.54 KB | Viewed 53 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am
Posts: 1409
Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
Well first off,
You have to stop thinking about component replacement -

You don't know WHAT to replace yet.

Second, ANYTHING that comes in contact with ANY electrical wire (L1, L2, or Neutral) that is WET (to any ground path) will trip the GFCI. Since this was a newer installation of a used tub (at least I thought it was), I would like to think there would be a lot less of what appears to be water leaks or whatever.

Third, There is a pressure switch on the back of the box that has 115 volts going through it... it has a lot of what appears to be white crud and dirt all over it. Id clean that thing up with alcohol or something and be sure there's no moisture anywhere around the electrical switch. Matter of fact, there cannot be any moisture around ANY electrical contact, this includes the back of the pump motor where the wires enter.

Fourth, you still need to disconnect everything like I said above and run the tub for a day or so with no heat, and nothing but the pump. There is no need to remove the wires from the heater element itself, just disconnect from the contactor on the lower right.

For the heater replacement? You don't replace the entire heater, you replace just the element - and at this stage of the game I'd go ahead and replace that ratty looking pressure switch as well.

http://spapartsnet.com/Electric-Heaters ... 6_0_1.html
Select the 5500 watt version.

http://spapartsnet.com/Electric-Heaters ... 0_3_1.html
That's the pressure switch.

That said, don't buy anything until the cause of the trip is found first.

Ummm one more question - are those separate grey and yellow power cables tied to the GFCI circuit?



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