92-95 cal spa eliminator ????

Ok subject says most of the story but....... asked previous owner about hot tub while on walk through and he said " hot tub is turned off because of power" I know I know I should have asked more questions but I assumed he meant power cost $$$$ I was buying the house not the tub so we moved on.

Got all moved in filled the tub flipped the breaker and guess what NOTHING at all no lights no bubbles no heat no nothing.

I changed the fuse and control is all pnumatic so I am assuming no circuit board.

So here are the pics and questions to get me started to a great summer!

1. POWER when the tub says 220 does it mean a 110 feed from the gfci

going to the red and one to the black and then green to green and white to white.

or should each of these feeds be 220??

2. How should I test how far the power is going as far as the relay's are concerned?

I guess what I am asking is NOW WHAT??

I have labeled the pic to help me figure this out I have many more if needed.

Any Pacific NW tech's that want to barder for a laptop or computer related service to get me soaking are more than welcome to contact me.

.hi 4th n 40 im a bear fan and have seen too many 4 th n 40 s not to try to help you. im not a spa tech lets get that straight i am however an electrician .now in your house, if you have a 2pole breaker you probably have a 220 spa meaning from your hose panel ther will be four wires going to your tub ....L 1 L2 a neutral and a ground .the heater will use L1 and L2 coming from the relay which is just a switch activated by a different device ,be it a flow switch, therostat, sensor or whatever depending on how the circuit is wired.take your tester and test one side of the relay ,top terminal to top terminal, you probably have 220v between these points.any way you need to make sure your feed from your house to the tub is correct before going to far. you said you flipped the breaker and changed the fuse ,do you mean a breaker in your house and a fuse for the heater overload ?the gfi may just protect one leg of the 220 aka 110 to protect electronic components, the tubprobably will be 220 or it would take forever to heat

How are ya doing on the spa rehab?

You will need a multitester to do your checks.

Measure ac volts between the red and black wires where they enter your spa. You should have 240V. If not, check at your house breaker, same way. If you still don't have 240V, replace the breaker. If you do, locate and repair the break in your electrical wiring to the spa.

Some systems use a 120V GFI hooked to a contactor for protection. It's a cheap way to have your spa GFI protected. What it does is uses the GFI on one leg (red or black wire only). Then the load side of this GFI breaker goes to a contactor that has both red and black going to it. This way when a ground fault is detected, it drops out the contactor and cuts all power. If you have your 240V entering the spa, check to see if you have 120V power both going into the line side of your GFI and out your load side of the GFI. It should measure 120 since you are using just one of the two legs. Measure between the colored (black or red) wire and the white (neutral). If you have power on both line and load side, follow the wires on the load side to the contactor and see if it's pulled in. If not, you may need to replace this. If it is pulled in, you will have to really start digging into the control panel's wiring.