I have a Calspas PS3 220 Volt Supra with Rotary Switches from 1990. I discovered a short circuit with the heater and replaced it after draining the water. I also rewired the spapack per the schematic in the owner's manual because the built-in GFCI did not trip as it should have when the heater shorted. I cannot recall exactly which wires I had to relocate but they did not match the schematics initially. After refilling spa and rewiring spapack nothing works! I can bypass the built-in GFCI since I installed a new one at the power panel on house but still can't get spa to turn ON. I also primed (bled) the pump. Everything was working prior to this. Please help!

Oh man.

Please don't tell me you have one of those Cal Spas with the multiple selector switch up top, and the wires come down (via a grey cord) to a special connector on the side (or bottom) of your PS3 control box. They're all small wires.. a hybrid electronic configuration thing maybe with a temperature display up top?

No, the controls are on top and they each control different things such as jets, thermostat, air, light. There is one black cord coming down and it plugs into the spapack. I can send you photos if it would help. The other thing I forgot to mention is that during my troubleshooting I could not read a voltage at the second contactor relay (at the input to switch the relays ON). In my infinite wisdom I decided to jumper its input with that of the first contactor relay but those 2 did not get along very well and sparked at each other. Oops! I measured both coils and they measured roughly the same resistance and do not appear to be burnt. In doing this I think I ended up frying the Interlock switch (the little magnetic safety for the doors) because I am not getting any voltage readings.

Hello...anybody home??? Here is an update:

I checked the control panel switches for continuity to the plug and they are good. I double checked all wiring in the spa pack and it is wired per the schematics. I am not getting a voltage from the contactor relay to the ON switch in the control panel. I shorted the magnetic safety switch wires together since I think I fried them last time I attempted to make the spa work. This safety switch is supposed to pass 110v from the L2 input on the contactor to the control (don't know the real name of this) coil on the contactor. This would then close the contacts on the contactor and supply power to the spapack GFCI, control panel, heater contactor, and several other relays. Something I have not quite figured out is that I am measuring 220v at the L1 input and 0v at L2. If I disconnect L1 and L2 from the contactor and measure them independantly, I get 110v each for L1 and L2. Could the timer or othe relays have anything to do with it? I am not quite sure how to test these. The timer has 4 connections, 2 relays have 5 connections, and 2 relays have 4 connections

I found the problem...There is a box attached to my spa pack where the 4 AC lines come into the spa pack. All connections are made with twist-on connectors and the neutral (white) wire had undone itself. I twisted them together using a new connector and checked all the others for a tight fit. Last night I used the spa for the first time and it works great!!!

Hmm, sorry to jump in here, and probably off-original-topic, but please check the pic below, It appears that I have that one mentioned above (???), what is wrong with it?



regards,

SB