I've got an old Gerico spa, probably 20 years old as far as what I have been told. I've re-build the spa pack and controller, with the help of folks here.

There has always been a slow leak, from somewhere. It appears along one side of the tub, and it looks like it is coming from under the tub. My tub is so old that it actually helps me here....It only has four jets, two on each side opposite each other. The tub surface has some blistering, and even a crack in the acrylic, but not much else.

I never paid attention to when the water appeared (it's on a concrete slab so it's easy to see), but now the leak is getting worse; to the point of having to fill the tub with 2 inches of water every couple of weeks.

So I de-energized the tub, and the water was still there. Thinking it must be a plumbing leak, I ripped open the skirt, and the insulation, to find....no leaks. On both sides, I exposed all the piping, fittings and exterior shell surface. WIth the pump on both speeds (blower and heat), absolutley no sign of leaking. No wet insulation...nothing.

So I've drained the tub to below the jet level, and closed the check valve on the suction side. So no water in the piping. I'm assuming if I still see water, it's a shell leak.

Anyone have any suggestions? If it is a shell leak, what product can I use to fix it, and how would I even diagnose it? I'm kinda stumped here...

Thanks all !

No magic here. Even though you might've checked it already, pay particular attention to the jets - and the suction fitting(s). What you want to look for are any types of cracks in the shell around them.

This one will kill you to no end.

Actually Brian, I found it. It wasn't the jets. I double checked. There is a pinhole leak at the bottom seam of the filter canister. It drips at a rate of about 1 drop every 1-2 seconds. Also, I have a crack in the motor housing on my Hayward pump. Both are causing the water to pool and drain down the slab to the low spot...which is exactly where I am seeing it. I think I 'didn't see it' when the jets were off was because it took a couple days to accumulate enough water to actually run off. I looked under the tub with a flashlight and saw that the water was coming directly from the area where the canister is. I guess I should have done that BEFORE I ripped the skirt off....

Which leads me to a question: I am attempting to patch the small hole with epoxy putty. I guess if that doesn't work I will need to replace the canister. I spoke with Jen today about that.

Also, in the schematic in the link below, how do I get the seal assembly and impeller off of the motor spindle? I don't see any bolts anywhere. I need to remove it to get the housing off.

Thanks Brian.



http://www.mypool.com/Help_files/Parts_ ... p-1500.htm

nevermind. I was able to get it off by putting a wrench on the backside of the spindle and using a channelocks to twist off the impeller.

Replaced the pump housing and the entire assembly is now leak-free. The filter housing, after 2 applications of the epoxy putty (one on top of each other), is still leaking, albeit a smaller leak now. I measured the amount and I am losing only 4 oz. per 24 period. So for me to lose 1 gallon, which probably won’t even be measurable in the tub anyway, it would take 4.5 weeks or so. I’ll lose way more than this thru evaporation, people going into/out of the tub, etc.

I’ll monitor the leak and see if it gets bigger. It’s funny that the putty didn’t fix it though. I doubt I can get the putty off and try something else.

Upon further inspection, the epoxy putty that is supposed to harden peeled right off. Either I mixed it incorrectly, or it isn’t applicable for this application, even though it said you could use it ‘underwater’. Seems a little far fetched, since when you apply water to it, even on it’s surface when it’s not dry, it basically liquefies.

So I got some DEVCON and am going to do it right. Since I just filled up the tub, I don’t want to drain it and waste the water (we are in CA and water is not exactly cheap), I got the wet/dry type that works underwater. When the pump is on, the leak basically stops, so there won’t be that much water on the leak.