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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:13 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Albert Lea, MN
if you use chlorine for sanitizer, the pink color on the jets could likely bleach out. If not, you just created a custom color. I've used food coloring a few times to help trace leaks. I didn't use so much though. The little 4 pack you get at the store works good enough, using the blue and green, to dye a 450 gallon spa. All you need is a hint of color that you can see on a white paper towel.



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 11:22 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 7:52 pm
Posts: 235
Location: connecticut
I've got the plumbing diagrams. Need Serial #, I-_________? email it to scarritt@snet.net. There are some specialty plumbing fittings in there not readily available, but from a HS dealer.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 1:19 am 

Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 11:21 am
Posts: 8
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
>I agree with Charger, neither of the leaks I've found so far would be >visible from inside (joint leaks)

Ah...ok....I thought from reading the posts on there that I was looking for split lines, either in low spots or at the junctions or unions.

I'm leaking an inch every 3 days.....I figured that to be a pretty decent size leak...but realistically it isn't a big split in a main pressure hose.

>As far as the dye job, yeah, my jets are all currently pink. but I care >much less about that than having a tub that actually works. And who >knows how permanent it is? In any case I guarantee I won't care a bit >when (if) I'm soaking in 104 in January while it snows!

Ya....that's true....a Good working spa on the cheap is always a good thing regardless of the looks.

>The tinted water dripping out of the bottom (once I put it on blocks) in 3 >places was incentive enough to flip it.


Tom



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 Post subject: Spring has sprung
PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 2:50 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 26, 2006 7:32 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Quad-Cities
After a brutal (tragically hot tub-less) late winter keeping me from tub repairs, it's time to get back to it. Tub's still on it's side, 2 leaks dug out (though not cleanly enough to repair yet) After seeing the condition of the joints I exposed. My plan is to pretty much trace all of the plumbing (first on the underside, then up the side if it seems neccessary) and fix ANY suspect connections. hot tub.pool boy if you still have those schematice, the serial number is IQ271484. I've also emailed it to you.

Any other advice on digging, prepping connections, best repair practices (I don't want to this again for a LONG time), things to look for, etc ... all greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all the help and advice! Here go my next few Sundays!
Shawn


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:24 pm 

Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 7:52 pm
Posts: 235
Location: connecticut
Shawn,
I'll look for the email tommorrow when I go into work.



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 Post subject: Ongoing Saga
PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 7:17 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 26, 2006 7:32 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Quad-Cities
OK, so I have almost ALL of the plumbing dug out (I'll post photos as soon as I get 'em off my camera) ... Somewhere near 50% of the flex shows strong pink from the dye. I understand ANY amount of that could be capillary action along the outside from some other leak, but clearly a couple of nipples were leaking. And there are of course other problems.

The bigger question is ... do I totally replumb this thing? Is it worth it?

I'm about a grand into it to begin with.

The pump,controller, heater ... all good.
I put in the dual amperage panel that Hot Springs spas need, all ready to go.

But ...

I've taken nicks out of most of the flex with the claw of the hammer.
***Anyone who tells you they can de-foam an entire tub and not destroy most of the flex is either lying or has 100-times more patience and a lot more spare time than I do***

Today, I just broke a chunk out of some kind of clear/smoky plastic fitting, a big, expensive looking one.
Winter (Tub Season) is coming soon.
I cannot afford to buy another tub - certainly not new.
(especially since it will take a LONG time for the sting of this one to wear off)

So question 1:
All new flex and bleed lines

replace whatever fitting that was I broke today (if the bottom of the tub were a clock face, it's about at 5:30 - with the pump and gear at 9:00, and the motossage at 1:00 - looks like it's below the 3 corner jets. On my diagram from David Scarritt, it looks like it's where a piece of 2" flex Y's into 2 smaller pieces).

replace all or most of the nipples
plus cement, clamps for the bleeds, and refoam (I've save most of the chipped out foam to restuff some of the big holes.

What's that gonna cost approximately? Anyone have a ballpark?
And more importantly ...

IS IT WORTH IT?

I know. Only I can answer what having a relaxing, rejuvenating hot tub on my deck is worth to me (I'd say so far I've proven that it means quite a bit). But a man's got his limits. Past that lurks insanity, with me mumbling something about foamed-in, hi-limit, Watkinses coming to get me ...

And, I'm not going to go through another winter with it out there on its side, not working, mocking me (and the crap I get from friends ... a whole other story).

So whattaya think?
Anyone?


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 Post subject: OK trying again: prices on parts
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 9:56 am 

Joined: Tue Sep 26, 2006 7:32 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Quad-Cities
Summary of my last post: I have to replace all of the flex and that one clearish/brownish large fitting mentioned above in my mid-90s Sovereign.

Anyone got an estimate of what that'll cost? Know of any good deal on flex/cement, etc?

I have about 1 week weather-wise to decide whether to fix it or sawzall it and stop pissing my neighbors off (it's on its side all dug out - not pretty.)

Thanks
Shawn


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