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shawn123
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Post subject: Tiger river siberian, leak! Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:00 pm |
Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:19 pm Posts: 19
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Just noticed my hottub h20 level dropped by a few inches in a few days over the holidays. I've removed paneling and tracked it down. Noticed the right side air inlet for the pump had a water logged corner. Also the stream of water coming from there was a give away =)
on the outside right of the pump bay where the air intake is for one of the motors....the air comes in from outside under the corner.
(I'm assuming this is an air inlet of some type for the motors as the large black corrugated tube leads to on of the motors.
Anyways a clear pvc drain or drip line of some type ties into there...and its leaking like a sieve. they just hotglue the fitting for the corner there and its leaked and penetrated the wood.
Anyways i think its fixable, just need to know what that drain,overflow, whatever line goes to so i can figure out why do much water is dripping from there....
i'll try to get a pic...
thanks,
shawn
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shawn123
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:27 pm |
Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:19 pm Posts: 19
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here ya go...this is the port on the outside right corner of the pump bay..
the small hose inside is whats leaking too much ...but i dont know what it goes to...
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Swine
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:07 pm |
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:50 am Posts: 921 Location: SW Florida
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If it's leaking intot the air exhaust duct for pump, the likely culprit is a check valve that's been redesigned. It's in the equip compartment- it has 2 3/4" lines running to it, and a 1/4" line.- give me a minute, I'll see if I can scrounge up a pic...
At any rate- it's a bout a 5 minute job to fix, and no wood need be removed 
_________________ t'was a woman that drove me to drink, and I've never had the courtesy to thank her
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shawn123
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Post subject: Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 1:32 am |
Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:19 pm Posts: 19
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That makes sense...i'll look to see if i can see the check valve.
Unfortunately i do have to do some repair as that corner wood was 100% soaked and fell right apart...have to remake a corner and replace the vertical wood strips that support that corner..luckily nothing structural though the main wood looks like it will dry out ok.
dumb way of doing that duct. They put the duct on top of the wood and sealed it with hotglue, would have seemed better to have the port go thru the wood then seal on the outside.
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shawn123
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Post subject: Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 1:36 am |
Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:19 pm Posts: 19
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That makes sense...i'll look to see if i can see the check valve.
Unfortunately i do have to do some repair as that corner wood was 100% soaked and fell right apart...have to remake a corner and replace the vertical wood strips that support that corner..luckily nothing structural though the main wood looks like it will dry out ok.
dumb way of doing that duct. They put the duct on top of the wood and sealed it with hotglue, would have seemed better to have the port go thru the wood then seal on the outside.
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shawn123
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 2:22 pm |
Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:19 pm Posts: 19
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I see the one you're talking about...about 4 inches or so long black, with a clip that holds the end on, 3/4 outlet, 3/4 at the 90, and 1/4 clear at the end entering.
the 1/4 line has a constant stream of water coming from it..
i took it apart and cleaned it but still leaking....not quite sure how that little stream of water would activate that check valve...its just a plunger inside it looks like.
what was this replaced with?
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Swine
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 11:52 am |
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:50 am Posts: 921 Location: SW Florida
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Disconnect the 1/4" line and cap it.
It's hooked up to the vacuum side of the pump plumbing, but when it gets a little stuck, will leak like mad. The remaining 3/4" lines, just run a hartford loop with a 3/4" check valve. You can order the repair kit on-line from a number of places, (part #72701?), or throw it together from a hoidge-podge of parts yourself. Most opf the time, just capping the 1/4" line will solve the problem.
_________________ t'was a woman that drove me to drink, and I've never had the courtesy to thank her
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shawn123
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Post subject: Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 12:08 pm |
Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:19 pm Posts: 19
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Ok....well finally got my wood replaced, refilled. I just tested capping the 1/4 inch going into that check valve and no leaks, should i cap the 1/4 inch inlet into the check valve also? ... what does this whole check valve thing do?
does it introduce air to the ozonator because i'm not getting bubbles from the recirculation pump/ozonator outlet...but seems to be heating ok?
thanks for the help!
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hottub.pool_boy
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Post subject: Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 5:22 pm |
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 7:52 pm Posts: 235 Location: connecticut
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for now, you don't need to plug/ cap the 1/4" part off the check valve. You will want to get the Hartford lop retro kit from your local dealer (they should stock them) or elsewhere.
_________________ Genuine HotSpring parts and Spaguard chemicals online
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shawn123
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Post subject: Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 5:31 pm |
Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:19 pm Posts: 19
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cool thanks. Yeah everything is running fine now, ozonator is now bubbling normally too. So i'll order the kit to finish her off..
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