I recently moved this HotSprings Hot Tub to my new place across town, about 10 miles away. Had it moved very professionally, not one scratch.

After having it connected and refilled the water will not get hot AT ALL. I am not sure if it is the heater element, filter, etc.

Some information on my hot tub:

HotSprings Model Sovereign
Ratings: 230v, 60Hz, 50 Amps
Heater: Is made by Watkins No Fault 6000

When I turn the jets on, the water does not flow through the tubes connected to the heater, but the jets are working on full power.


You will notice that in photo of electrical board where is says "heater on" has a red light. Next to the green light it say "LIM OK"

Any one know how I can trouble shoot this problem????

You said... 'this HotSprings Hot Tub'.

I'm assuming it wasn't yours originally.

That tub will take a number of hours to get hot.

The jet pump isn't responsible for pumping water through the heater. The small circulation pump is.... look for a jet of water coming into the tub by itself with the main pump turned off.

That said, you may want to measure the voltage for the heater power at the terminal block to be sure you've got power there -

How long will it take for the water to warm up? I had it on for about 5 hours and the water was still cold. Not even a little warm.

Also does the red light next to "heater on" mean anything?

How do I measure voltage? At the subpanel? On the 30 amp or 20 amp side?

Your heater power input I don't think is hooked up correctly.

You've got what looks like to be terminals 1 and 2 jumpered together... something... hmmm can't tell much, too dark.

You've got a 30 amp breaker, what terminals are it connected to?

reference this one:

http://spaforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=4007

No it's not jumpered... but something is not right with your power input wiring.

This Sovereign is a 220volt only model and looks to be hooked up properly...

Pageup...the one in your link is a 220volt converted tub and hooks up differently than this one.

To measure voltage...turn power off remove the black and white heater leads from the relay (all the way to the left of the box). Turn power on and test for voltage with your meter on the relay board at the two terminals that you just took the leads off from.

Yeah you're right.

To add a bit more clarity -
In addition to the above - I'd be looking to measure terminals 1 & 3 for presence of 220+v if you don't get the power output at the heater terminals as Dan suggested.

(I keep forgetting that that particular h/s version uses a 3 terminal 20 amp gfci for the system power).

I will never forget...I sold a few at a homeshow after I had been on vacation for a few weeks and didn't have time to read up and find out that they were 220 volt only. (The special edition had just come out) I gave out convertible sub-panels/directions and looked like a jerk after electricians hooked up the tubs and they didn't work.

Don't think I'd be able to find one of those breakers locally - well not without paying big bucks at a elex supply house.

The wiring at the hot tub has never been changed or touched, so if there is something wrong with the wiring, then it would be at the subpanel.

So I added these photos of the subpanel in case something there was done wrong. When I disconnected the hot tub from the previous location, there were only 3 wires from the main panel powering it, but now there are 4 (there was not a copper wire on the previous hook up).

<p>







This photo is an overview of the entire subpanel<br>