is there an easy way to see if the silentflow pump is working on my 1990 hot springs prodigy. I was having heater problems so i drained the tub. When I removed the heater there was no water inside. Shouldn't the heater still be filled with wath water after I drain the tub. Is this what caused the heater meltdown. Now I need to see if water isn't being pumped through the heater
thanks

There is a return fitting on the wall where the light lens is. It might have a waffle cover on it, the same type cover that is on the floor drain. Put your hand over it to feel for flow. It won't feel like a jet but you should feel flow.
The heaterbody has a 1/4" line coming off the bottom on the back that drains it when draining the spa.
When you refill the spa, put the hose in the filter area (to avoid airlock) and turn the thermostat down before plugging it in. Wait for circ pump flow before turning up the t-stat.
What do you mean by the "Heater Meltdown"? If the little red button (heater reset) closest to you on the control box trips then your heater is heating and it is a flow problem.

Pete

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thanks for your reply. I guess, what you're saying is, I have to refill the tub before i'm able to test the pump? Not sure if plugging in the spa with the heat turned up might have melted it. I had a fire - meltdown where the plug fits into the control box.
I just got what I was told was a working used heater but get no "resistance" ohms reading when I use my multimeter on the two round plugs on the J and J at the end of the heater element. Any thoughts or other tests. If on my old heater with the melted plug there seemed to be a reading - although it was all over the place. but with the new used heater the meter doesn't budge.
thanks
again

Sounds like the heater is bad. You should get an ohm reading. Having the heater turn on without water can definitely burn it out. Plugging in the spa with the heater turned up and the spa full should not hurt it. It's not unusual to find the heater receptacle burned. You will need to replace the heater receptacle as well as the heater - part numbers 30163 & 31255.

Pete
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pulled heater element - it looks okay. no obvious signs of burning or melting. Just the J and J plug. Also there is a small piece of metal that is bent on one end that slides into the element - is this some sort of fusible link? what does it do? it was totally fine and in tact when I pulled it out of the element.
thanks

That metal is to hold the high limit bulb in the heater. Do Not crimp what looks like a wire you took out of the heater - it is the capillary tube and is a tube not a wire. Test for continuity at the 2 round prongs of the heater cord - if you have continuity the heater is probably OK - although if it trips the GFI it is bad.

Pete
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everything is up and plugged in. There is a little water dripping from the heater o ring. So I need to replace but first want to test to see if the element I'm using is any good. How long will it take for the heater to heat up?? and should any part of the outside of the heater be warm so I can tell if this thing is work?? Or do I leave it over night and see if the hot tub gets hot?
thanks

The quick way to tell is to unplug the circ pump for about 15 seconds - you may need a magnet to connect the door interlock contact - when plugging the circ pump back in have your hand over the heater return and you should feel heat - don't leave circ pump unplugged too long or the high limit will trip - if the high limit trips you KNOW the heater is heating.
That spa will heat up 1 1/2 to 2 degrees per hour if it is 110 volt hookup.

Pete
This advise to be used at your own risk

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