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Post subject: cal spa heater Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 6:14 pm |
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1997 C-2000 Cal spa, Heater relay AZ2280-1C-240 melted. Replaced relay and wires, heater still doesn't work. Checked voltage to heater element one side has voltage but other side doesn't. Everything else seems to work. Do I need a new element or what?
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:17 pm |
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am Posts: 1406 Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
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yep you do need a new element if this is a 115 volt system.
If it's 230 then you're missing half of your voltage to the element, and you've got other problems.
Got any other numbers besides that relay that was replaced? Any idea if this is a digital or electro-mechanical system or ?
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Post subject: Cal spa heater Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 8:54 pm |
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It is a digital system, and 230 volts. As for the AZ2280 relay if you're looking down on it from the top it has two small spade post on the left side, both are hot. to the front are three larger spade post from the left the first is the leg to the heater that has no power, the center post goes to the other side of the heater and has power, the third is a white common connection with no power. All the small relays accross the circuit board have power and are working. It does have a pressure switch on the heater tube, don't know if it is working or not - don't know how to check it.
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 9:10 pm |
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am Posts: 1406 Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
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Well, sorry but the only way I can help you any further is if you can take some images of this thing and upload it here or send them to image91@spanet.net
There's just not enough information to give you any qualified advice.
Pics make a world of difference...
_________________ Use this information at your own risk!
http://spapartsnet.com
http://atlanta.spanet.net
Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic.
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Post subject: cal spa heater Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2004 10:59 pm |
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ok finally got the camera to work. Did some more testing. Its a 240v system but only have 120 when testing across the heater element. With power off and wires disconnected there is 10 ohms across the element. Can't find a hi-limit switch that has a reset. The display pad has a heat light but it's not on. Hope these photos are of some help. I tried emailing them to image91@spanet.net but got failed delivery messages.
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 12:33 am |
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am Posts: 1406 Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
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Sorry about that, had a minor server problem with that address. It should work now. It'd be a great help if you could send them again.
Thanks.
_________________ Use this information at your own risk!
http://spapartsnet.com
http://atlanta.spanet.net
Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic.
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 2:19 am |
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am Posts: 1406 Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
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Ed.. the pictures you sent me represent a very significant design modification from the normal Balboa Instruments™ configuration. (Balboa would never do this on their own, for obvious reasons).
Running heater current like this through a separate 'off board' relay - yikes!
Gimme some time to consider all that you've sent, and a special thanks for the back of the controller diagram.
I'll post back or send you a separate email with details. While you're at it, things would work better for all concerned if you registered and got a legit user id.
Many thanks.
PS: On initial inspection ... this is one FRIED system. None of these heavy current carrying wires is in a condition to allow for any kind of reasonable longevity. Sorry for the initial thoughts, but it's what I'm seeing... black and dark wires, oxidation everywhere, connections.. all of it.
_________________ Use this information at your own risk!
http://spapartsnet.com
http://atlanta.spanet.net
Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic.
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