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wgdmjs
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Post subject: No HEAT Please help Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 7:49 pm |
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:35 pm Posts: 8
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Hello I just bought a house with a hot tub so learning on the go here. It is a Image ReNew 716. Dont know the year it was made. It has Balboa controls. Filled it with water jets have good pressure but heater does not come on. When I first started it the heating light on the controls up top came on for just a couple minutes but now nothing. I figured it might be the pressure switch so I jumped it but still nothing. I checked the power on the heating element have 110v on both legs but not 220v when I cross them. So I took out the heating element thought it might be bad not so sure now. I have a Flo thru heater and when I took the element out I busted one of the legs off so I do have to get a new one but wondering if that was even the problem? I checked for a high limit switch but couldnt find one it just has a sensor next to the tube that houses the element. Wondering if the heat light doesnt come on up top does that mean it not trying to heat and my board is bad? Any input would be great. Called the manufacture but they didnt know much just said replace element. Is there a way to test them after there out? Thanks!! P.S. Need to get this fixed fast or drain the tub because of freezing!!
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Pageup
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:36 pm |
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am Posts: 1409 Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
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No, you should not have removed the element.
If you don't have 230 or 115 across the terminals of the element then you have a logic or board problem.
The only thing to prevent it from freezing up at this point is to stick the heater back in and turn it on so it will circulate the water, then wait for a new heater element to arrive, (or until you can get one).
Otherwise, drain the spa, disconnect the pump suctions and pump drain plugs to ensure most of the water is out.
_________________ Use this information at your own risk!
http://spapartsnet.com
http://atlanta.spanet.net
Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic.
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wgdmjs
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 8:21 am |
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:35 pm Posts: 8
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So after I install the new heater where should I start troubleshooting. Can you replace the relays on the board or should I just order a new one and that will solve my problems. It is a 240v heater and I have that coming in to the box.
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wgdmjs
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 8:21 am |
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:35 pm Posts: 8
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So after I install the new heater where should I start troubleshooting. Can you replace the relays on the board or should I just order a new one and that will solve my problems. It is a 240v heater and I have that coming in to the box.
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wgdmjs
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:13 pm |
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:35 pm Posts: 8
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So I replaced the heater element Pageup was right it wasnt the heater. Wondering where I go from here. Still do not have 230v when I cross the two terminals so that means it is not trying to call for heat right. The heat light on the control panel up top still does not come on. My display is showing the right temperature of the water. And as soon as I flip the breaker it runs the pump because it knows that it is too cold. Do you think it could be the high limit thermastat that is bad. What it has is a probe that goes in the back of the flo thru heater. I didnt see a reset button that other people say they have. Thought about jumping that too before I order a new board. Where do I start checking with a volt meter what is bad already checked all the relays and fuses for continuity and there all good. Do not want to pay 80 dollars for a service call just so the guy can tell me it is the board. If it is the circuit board where can I find one cheep. It is a Balboa but dont know the model off hand. Thanks
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wgdmjs
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:19 pm |
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:35 pm Posts: 8
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Just read a post that said to pull the hi limit thermastat off I did that and the spa shut down so I guess that means it is still good. What I unplugged had four wires going to it two for the thermastat for the hot tub and two for the high limit thermastat.
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wgdmjs
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 7:47 pm |
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:35 pm Posts: 8
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Temperature setting is set at 90 right now. It blinks when I set it then says the temperature of the water which is 58. When I unplugged the hi limit/thermostat wires it gave me a 5n or Sn reading on the control up top. Dont know what that stands for. The control I have says it is a Balboa Icon15 system. My owners manual says it should say cool when the temperature difference is more than 20 degrees all it says is the temp of the water at the time. Thanks for your input pageup
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Pageup
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 7:59 pm |
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am Posts: 1409 Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
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Well since you've already tried bypassing the pressure switch, it sounds like the controller is fubar. Those icon units after a number of years become rather worthless in their own right.
These controls are essentially a use for a few years, throw away and get new one later - that board btw, is no longer available as well.
_________________ Use this information at your own risk!
http://spapartsnet.com
http://atlanta.spanet.net
Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic.
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wgdmjs
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 10:04 pm |
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:35 pm Posts: 8
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If all the controls on the topside are working except no heat light, and it doesnt say cool should I replace the topside control and if that dont work the board. Or replace everything at once. How can I tell if the board is bad
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