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 Post subject: Heater Problem?
PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 7:31 pm 

Joined: Sun Dec 19, 2004 1:31 pm
Posts: 9
So I finally got the jets and blowers working on my tub. For those that have read my other posts (by ck). However, the heater does not appear to be doing its job. The water temprature has been stable at 60 degrees all day now. The control panel temprature dial is all the way up. As is the tub heater control, and the heater button is lit. I've attached some photos. One of a brass/copper cylinder on a wire? I think it's some sort of thermastat, but unsure? I know it's connected to the temprature dial on the control panel. But I have no idea where it should go? I've also included a shot of a wire from the heat control on the tub going into the piping. Would also like to know what this does? So anyone with possible avenues to check? As always, thanks for any help. Happy Holidays! Ck


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wire from heat button.JPG
wire from heat button.JPG [ 50.48 KB | Viewed 1283 times ]
copper cylinder.JPG
copper cylinder.JPG [ 68.87 KB | Viewed 1283 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am
Posts: 1406
Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
The first image is a thermal sensor probably coming down from the spa topside control panel. Like one of these things: http://spapartsnet.com/c_Spa-Parts-Cont ... 224_1.html

The second image is either your spa controller thermostat sensor or your spa controller high limit switch sensor. It should be attached to the stainless steel heater tube (there's a sleeve on the tube for it).

Like these:

http://spapartsnet.com/p_Thermostats_EL ... 8_0_1.html
http://spapartsnet.com/p_High-Temperatu ... 2_0_1.html

You have a choice. You can either control the temp by the thermostat on the topside control panel, or using the spa control box thermostat. Whichever one you don't use, you need to turn all the way down.

Your most likely problem with your heater is that your heater element is bad. You need to get a volt/ohm meter and test the element for power, and if it has power, then do an ohms check. I'll bet there's no continuity in it. It should read between 9-15 ohms.



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