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 Post subject: heater quit, found burnt/corroded neutral wire
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2004 7:34 pm 
ok, I have a problem with my alaxa 110 volt jacuzzi spa and I'm needing your help again I bought a screw plug heater from you last year or the year before that.
My heater quit working, the low speed pump runs when you turn the thermostat up and the hot tub shows all signs that it's heating but NO HEAT. I opened the control box and foung the three neutral wires, 1 from gfi, one from the screwplug heater and 1 from the pump were corroded and seemed burnt so that when I touched them they fell apart. they all had plugs or quick connectors so I cut out the bad part of the wire and spliced them all back together. Should be ok now right? nope still no heat after 1 day of running, after more checking I foung a lose neutral conntion in the screw plig heater, tightened that and nothing after three hours of running. I looked at the page for testing the heater and the only test I saw was a OHM test of the heater coil. Are there other tests I can do? I did test voltage between the ground(after tighning the last connection) and the two wires on the heater core and had about 2 volts? on each. any other suggestions? wait till tommorow to see if any more heat?
tanks for any help you can give
dave Wood


  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2004 7:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:39 am
Posts: 1409
Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
If it's possible, the voltage between the two terminals on the heater element must be checked. It should read 110-120V. Just don't forget though that that heater will take about 24 hours to heat up the spa.

If I had a picture of this thing (image91@spanet.net) or uploaded directly here, I would be able to help you a little more.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 8:09 am 
I can get a picture tonight. I'll check the voltage across the element tonight too. thanks for your help

dave


  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 8:32 pm 
ok, no voltage across the element. took pics but will have to upload tomorrow morning. I did check the heater relay and have voltage on one side but not on the side that goes to the element. is this relay something I can buy locally? hopefully when I upload the pics someone can identify this relay because I think this may be the problem. I think the bad connection I described earlier toasted the relay.

thanks again for the help here


  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2004 8:43 pm 
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Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
You may be right.

Local availability? Hmmm. Would need to see the relay and know what city/state you live in.

Look forward to seeing those photos, they'll help a lot.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2004 7:04 am 

Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 5
ok, heres the pictures, sorry i did not get the relay in question in the picture but the type is S87R11-12. I live in akron, oh. thanks again for your help.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2004 7:08 pm 
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Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region
Sorry I didn't see your repost here back on the 1st.

Actually, I would look for any others that may be burned. Better yet now, the schematic on the door is probably the most important thing you could've uploaded because that will tell exactly where to look and what is what.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance.



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 Post subject: new relay didn't fix
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2004 10:01 pm 
The realy did not fix it and I foung another loose neutral wire connected next to the element, the green one in the second picture. I'll take a picture of the schematic and repost, thanks again for your help


  
 
 Post subject: found problem
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2004 4:48 pm 

Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 5
turned out to be the flow switch. Have to try to find a replacement quick


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