OK, I'll take some pics of the connections at the breaker. But just to be clear, are you saying that the connections in the control box are correct, but the voltage readings accross terminals 2 and 4 are NOT? This leads you to believe the connections at the breaker are wrong?

Previously you said that if I read zero voltage accross 2-4 but 110v accross 2-ground and 4-ground that the terminals are on the same "phase". Both terminals on the same phase is not the proper wiring of the heater. Do I have that right?

Pictures of the breaker connections coming...

Thanks again.

Mark

"But just to be clear, are you saying that the connections in the control box are correct, but the voltage readings accross terminals 2 and 4 are NOT?"

Exactly

Thanks again!

Here is a picture of the breaker box at the spa. The breaker is a 50amp.



Thanks to your help, I feel very close to a solution. Thanks for hanging in there with me.

Mark

Looks like it may be hooked up in a way that would allow it to work, but I only will work on tubs that are hooked up based on the exact wiring diagrams, so I am not positive. I'm sure Swine will check back in for a look.

Here's a shot in the dark, is the summer timer switch on the outside of the IQ2000 box (right side and may be under some tape) turned to 'off' or 'on'? It should be set to off. If it is 'on' the heater would come on for a brief few seconds before turning off for a period of time. This could explain the Tech getting a reading on his amp clamp that it was heating.

It's wired not according to spec, but it should be fine.

I suspect the breaker is bad, OR, the breaker supplying power to the subpanel is 1/2 tripped, or is bad.

What we need to do is find out where the problem is.

To do that, we need to measure the voltage coming into the subpanel, at the two main "hot" lugs of the Bus Bar (The black and Red, NOT on the breaker, but coming from the house into the subpanel).

If you get ~240, then check voltage again at the red and black of the breaker.


If you don't get ~240, then we'll go from there, but 1st things 1st

Ok, I understand. I'll take the readings tonight and post results then.

I'll also check the breaker in the main panel and make sure it isn't "half-tripped". (Duh...I should of thought of that one already)

Thanks again,

Mark

Swine, your a genius!

I called my wife after I got your last message and asked her to check the breaker in the main box. I told her that I (you) suspected it was half-tripped. She told me it looked fine, but she reset it anyway.

When I came home, I was all ready to take my new voltage readings when I noticed that beautiful green light that said the tub was "ready". I checked the temperature and sure enough....105 degrees.

I couldnt be happier. I've been struggling with this for two months. I've been through one electrician and one spa technician. Nobody thought to check the main breaker until you came along.

I'd really like to repay you somehow for all your help in troubleshooting.

Thanks so much,

Mark

Yay!


~Enjoy

Just had to chime in on this one... half tripped double breakers will fool everyone.

I once spent 2 hours trying to figure out one of these on an old jacuzzi tub... what a nightmare when that **** breaker looks right, but yet, it ain't.

Last example on this page... circa 1998 or something like that:
http://spasupport.com/electrical/main/burnedwires.html

What a pain in the ass this thing was. It only takes one to never forget. Great job SW. Thanks for the good photos Mark - that's the difference between success and failure in remote -virtual- troubleshooting.