The heater staying on would mean a stuck relay on the board. If the pressure switch was the problem you'd get an FLC error (one of the 'three dot' errors, but it doesn't just go away) instead of the heater staying on, since the logic on board would know that the pump was no longer on low. And you've already checked your pressure switch, but just to double check: with the meter in ohm mode (same as for the heater) the switch should read 0.0 when the pump is on low or high, and OL when off.

In the end I think you've just got a bad board. Like I said, a relay has to be getting stuck to keep the heater light on when the tub is idle. The only other option would be that the low speed pump windings were failing AND the pressure switch was always closed, neither of which are the case.

How old is the pack?

The sticker on the top of the pack housing shows the pack was manufactured 11.26.03
How expensive is the board and where is a good place to get one? Would a whole replacement pack be a better option?

Since the tub is an '04, you might still be covered under warranty. A lot of tubs with hydroquip equipment will warranty the pack for five years. Still got your purchase info?

Also the pressure switch reads 0.0 when the pump is running high or low when on the 20K scale. When everything stops and goes to idle the meter reads 4.13. So there is a definite change in the position of the switch.
I do not have the purchase info but I could always call that Pierre back to see if he would replace it?

Well..I just got off the phone with Pierre and just as "useful" as before. He was quick to point out that the tub manufacturer would have the warranty where Hydro-Quip does not. He would love to sell me a brand new board for $380 or have me send mine in for service. With the turn around time, I would have to make sure that every bit of water was out as the temps here forecasted in the teens. I already found a board online at:

http://www.cheappoolproducts.com/Printe ... oduct.html

by the photo it looks to be the same but is there a cheaper source?

Once replaced do I still send my board in for repair so I would always have a spare?

Again I greatly appreciate EVERYTHING!!!! You truly rock!!!

My pleasure. Sorry this hasn't been as straightforward as we'd have liked.

You shouldn't get any resistance at all on the pressure switch when the pump is off. Turn the adjustment on top of the switch clockwise until it remains at OL when you test it with the pump off. Then test with the pump on to make sure it still goes to 0.0.

He's right, Hydro Quip does warranty through the manufacturer, which in turn warrants through the dealer to the consumer. You'll have to get in touch with either the manuf or the dealer. But that's if it turns out to be the board. Let's see what calibrating the pressure switch does.

Thank you! Now before I turn anything, please help me understand? How sensitive is this knob? Should the multi-meter stay on the 20K range or reduced? How much adjustment will reflecton the meter if this switch is a on/off switch?

The switch should be on/off, so you should get either 0.0 with the pump running or OL with the pump off. Any range setting should be fine, or you can use the plain continuity 'beep' setting.

The knob just adjusts the amount of pressure required to close the switch, going from 1 to about 5 psi. At the lower end (1 psi), the weight of the water in the tub will close the switch even when the pump is off. At the higher end (5 psi) the pump doesn't generate enough pressure on low speed to close the switch. You want it set as high as possible. So, starting with the pump on low and the switch set in the low end, slowly adjust counter clockwise until the setting is too high for the pump to close. Then back off about 1/4 turn so that it closes again.

That makes perfect sense and it is now adjusted. Opens when pump is on low and high, closed when off... only took about 1/8 turn to be where the meter responded. But even after I turn the temp way down and everything goes to idle the heater pack "on" light is still on. Still thinking stuck relay and replace the board?

Looks like it to me, though it is still baffling to me that the heater is not getting boiling hot from sitting still like that.