I was given an old jacuzzi whirlpool brand spa (vector II).I was told the heater was bad, so I bought a new heater and put it in. I filled the tub and turned her on but I have no heat. I checked the relay and the relay has power in and out. I bypassed the flow switch and still nothing, I checked the ohms on the element (6kw) and they read 10ohm. I checked the power between each lead with the ground and both sides read 120. I checked the thermostate and thats functioning properly. I'm clueless. I've never owned a spa before so I'm not sure if I'm missing something simple.I'm not even sure how long it's suppose to take to warm up water. If someone could tell me I would appreciate it. I'm not sure if it is working and it's just taking forever to warm up or not.

I would recommend checking the flow pressure switch, it should be located on the heater assy, the pressure swith is what allows the heater to turn on only when it senses water pressure flowing thru the heater assy to avoid the heater from burning out. On the swith you will have two wires coming off of it, when the switch closes it allows a relay to close and supply current to the heater. If you remove the two wires and connect them togeather (be very cautious when doing this,I recommend shutting off the electricity first, the switch is low voltage but you will have your fingers around the higher voltage within the controls) with these wires connected check to see if you have heat. if this is a 240v sysytem check the voltage from both electrical connections on the heater, you should see 240v, if not the heater is not on. the same applys for 120v.

Good luck and be careful.

First question first. Do you have a 220V spa or a 110V spa? Better safe not to assume anything. If your contactor is pulled in, and you have power on both sides, and your wires are unbroken to your element, you will have power to your element. What you need to do is forget about testing from each leg of the element to ground. Check ACROSS the element terminals AND the contactor. This will verify if you have power going to the heater, and not just through it. If only one side of the element is powered, and you check each side to ground, you will read voltage on each side, but there will be no potential between the two. It isn't a common problem, but I have seen it where the previous owner was in there messing around and actually hooked up both line wires to the heater to the same power terminal, and that would be on par with your readings of 110 to ground. If you do your checks, across both terminals (before and after the contactor and at the heater) and read 0V between all of them, follow the line side of the relay back to the power terminal strip and I bet they will be connected together.