Ref: HotSprings Soveriegn 5 years old.

From new water, took 24+ hours to heat to use temp. High 30's to mid 40's temp outside, cover needs replacing but seals pretty good. This is longest time ever.

IQ2000 controls. 220vac ok, turned thermostat up/down and watched led monitor heater start, 3-wire (10awg) cord to heater easily disonnected and read 36 ohms at black/white. Circ pump ok. High limit ok green led ok (on when hi limit ok).

Can't understand why took so long. Figured heater either works or doesn't. After power recycle same thing.

Also control panel at tub (inside) no longer turning jets on/off. has light as well at same and it works. Looks like a small tab at bottom for removal of cover to reveal? Maybe some air switches? Hard to get this cover off? Replacement for cover if I damge it?

Thanks in advance for any insight.

the tater

Your heating problem is most likely to be due from lack of thermal insulation. You are most likely loosing heat almost as fast as you put it in. If you can, add more insulation, under, around, and above the tub (cover).

This is a fairly common problem...just think how it would be if it was 120V!!!

tks for reply, upon further review I beleive you're right.
tub is foam-filled complete but cover kind of sad.
new one coming next week.

know anything about fiber optic switches on same tub?
i have another post ref the fiber optic issue.

tks again, a-tater

Well, if you're still around, the fiber optic controls were ditched in 2000, and electronic mini-volt systems replace them. Look identical, but not only will you need a new aux. control panel, you'll need a new control head as well. Probably around ~300 or so...

Also, your heater is a 6KW heater, should ohm out around 12, not 36...

You sure it's 220v? no plug, and a 5 wire connection from subpanel to control box? (3 hots, 1 ground, 1 neutral)

5 wire?? 220 (actually in the US it's 240V) is just 2 wires with ground, and occasionally a neutral (depending on application). Thus, maximum of 4 wires. Just wanted to clarify that.

Not in a Hot Spring Sovereign 110/220v convertable that's wired for 220....
They can't do things simple....it's against their nature, as they have way too many engineers...

They use two breakers.

A single pole 20amp 110v GFCI breaker for the pumps and circuitry

A double pole 30Amp 220v GFCI breaker for the heater.

You do not run a neutral to the 30 amp, only the 20amp

so, you basically have 5 wires. (3 hots, 1 neutral, and a ground)

In their 220v models, you'll see a 6 wire run (4 hots, a ground, and a neutral):shock:

And in their really old 220v units, they ran a 30 amp 220v breaker, a 20 amp 220v breaker, and and a 20 amp 110v breaker, for a total of a 7 wire connection between the subpanel and the spa

Though the subpanel is supplied by a 50 amp breaker (4 wire)

Hope that clarifies things

Ok, now that you explained how you are comming up with the 3 hots, 1 neutral, and 1 ground, it's clear that you are talking from the spa cabinet subpanel itself. Comming from the house panel, it will only be the 2 "hots". After reading your first post regarding this subject, it appeared that you were describing a 3 phase service for a hot tub in a residential setting. In the situation you described, a person that hasn't had much experiance in these sub panels could be easily mistake the wiring for either 120 or 240. I would have the person check the feed from the house panel to be certain if they aren't familier with testing multiple taps in a sub panel.

I guess I should have emboledened that part of my reply so people would notice