I HAVE A COLMAN HORIZON 400 W/ A BALBOA CONTROLER 1996

THE K-6 HI LIMIT RELAY IS NOT CLOSING SO NO POWER TO THE HEATER

I TESTED THE HEATER ELEMENT AND GET 0 OHMS COULD A BAD HEATER
ELEMENT CAUSE THE RELAY PROBLEM ?

THANKS STEVE

No it won't stop the relay from operating.

I'm assuming you were measuring your heater element on a range scale that was a maximum of more than 500 ohms? (which is why you'd read 0). If your ohm meter can get down to a lower max range... say 100 ohms or less, it should show somewhere in the range of 9-12 ohms.

What would cause the heater relays from functioning is a faulty board, temperature or high limit sensors, pressure switch and temperature setting.

You could run with the heater removed from the circuit and the system will still work properly assuming nothing else is bad...

I'LL HAVE TO CHECK THE OHMS AGAIN

"You could run with the heater removed from the circuit"
HOW DO I DO THIS AND ARE THERE ANY DRAWBCKS?

EVERYTHING ELE IS WORKING
PUMP #1 GOES ON LOW HEATER RELAY PULLS IN BUT NOT THE HI LIMIT
RIGHT NOW THE WATER IS 70 DEGRES

PUMP #1 WORKS HI AND LOW
PUMP #2 WORKS HI AND LOW
AIR BLOWER WOKS

THANKS AGAIN STEVE

ALRIGHT I PUT A JUMPER WIRE ACROSS THE K6 HI TEMP LIMIT
THE HEATER IS WORKING
IS THIS GOING TO BE OK
THANKS STEVE

NO!
This is a safety relay and as such must work correctly to protect you and your spa/home. if the 2nd relay should fuse closed you will end up with a heater melt down and fire.
you need to have a service tech replace the relay (if its faulty) or the board if its not.

"You could run with the heater removed from the circuit and the system will still work properly assuming nothing else is bad..."

HOW DO I DO THIS?
EVERYTHING IS WORKING RIGHT NOW WITH A JUMPER WIRE ACROSS THE HI LIMIT RELAY
TEMP AT 100 DEGRESS AND HOLDING ALL PUMPS WORKING

FILTER GOING ON TWICE ADAY

SO WHATS WRONG? COULD THE HI LIMIT SENOR BE BAD?
OR A BAD RELAY?
IF ITS NOT SAFE I WANT TO FIX IT
THANKS STEVE

pageup is simply stating that if you disconnect the heater, the rest of the system will work correctly if your heater is at fault, not to bypass an important relay.
likely faults - relay contacts failed, relay coil failed, circuit board fault not putting power to relay coil.
this assumes that you have no error meassages such as OH, etc on your display- most of which affect one relay only, the other relay usually closes as soon as power is supplied to the unit. This is the one more likely to fail because its usually on (on most systems) all the time regardless of heating condition, waiting for an OH (usually) error to occur and opens then. by bypassing it, rather than replacing, you've lost the ability for your controller to safeguard as designed.
relay replacement is not always possible and may not solve the issue, if its another pcb fault, in which case a new pcb is required.
sensors would not usually cause this problem without error messages
if you have a heater 'on' indicator or light and its illuminated with the relay open, its definetely a relay or board issue.

YES THE HEAT ON IS ON WITH THE RELAY OPEN
CAN YOU CHANGE A RELAY ON THE BOARD?
AND WHERE DO I GET ONE?
NEVER HAD ANY ERROR CODES

THANKS STEVE

we have 15v DC coil relays here in Australia, however you should be able to source locally also - check the coil voltage rating b4 ordering - its possibly not 15v DC (all of these imported into Australia are 15v)
Zettler T-90 style relay