ok, starting to get it. I could not find the limit switch to reset; I originally thought the reason the heater would not go back on (after I turned it down from 110) was because the limit switch tripped. I looked around and couldn't find it, so I assumed it was internal.

Then when the thermostat did kick on again, I figured everything was fine. Apparently it was not, and maybe that switch needs to be found and reset.

The original problem was the sticky thermostat, which needs to be replaced. But the heater will not heat back up to where the switch is 'stuck' at 110, beacause the limit switch needs to be reset ...??

Still don't understand why the heater came on in the first place if the limit switch was not reset...?

Hi mchad21,

There is the possibility that the high limit is self resetting. I am used to a bi-metal plate with a "Push to reset" button.
If a physical sticking of the points occour, then you can smack the spa side, and jar loose the points.
If the high limit trips, then the amperage across the points dies, and the points may seperate. If this happens after the switch trips, then you have the scenario as now.
Otherwise, the element may have failed, etc.
You said the spa is 95 degrees. It may be that it is not heating at all, and the 95 degrees is residual temperature supported by the equipment byproduct heat.
( Geesh it sounds like I'm Grasping for it now EH?)

yeah, I don't think it is heating at all. That was my assumption. The temp now is just what is left over from when it hit 110.

I will post picks of the internal box tomorrow. Thanks for all the great info and have a great night !

Hopefully we can figure it out tomorrow.

ok here are the pics. Pic 1 is of the controller faceplate

Pic 2 is of the thermostat wire going into the filter area. The other end of the wire goes into the controller.

The other pic is of the 'box' that the controller is connected to. The mfg. is 'CRL' with a serial number of 0399. I can provide more pics or info if needed.

I see a piece of PVC, with couplings on both sides. Looks to be about 12 inches long and probably 1 1/2 inch diameter. Could this be the heater element? The funny thing is, is that no where can I see any connections into the PVC; i.e. flow switch, limit switch, etc. There is nothing. I'm assuming they are all internal to the CRL 'box', because if it wasn't there would be no way for the thermostat to communicate with the pump/heater, I would think.

Other info: The unit's GFI and the GFI receptacle it's plugged into did not trip, and have never tripped. I cannot see any high limit switch to reset. Maybe it exists, maybe it's an internal mechanism and resets itself?

Hopefully this helps a little bit. I can dismantle whatever parts are required. It's tough to take photos though because there is a gazebo built around the tub, and the access door is on the short side. THanks again all !

here are a couple more pics. One of the pump, and one of what I think is the heater manifold. There are no penetrations thru the manifold, no compression fittings to house switches, etc. The wire attached to the top of the pipe is just used to hold the light in place...it does not penetrate the PVC.

Usually the heater is housed in a stainless steel tube. I have had 2 hot tubs where they used a PVC tube. I would trace the wires from the control box to the heater. The flow switch almost always is on or near the element as well.

thanks. Is it possible the element and switch are inside the CRL box (what is the proper term for that thing anyway)?

I don't see any switches, compression fittings or stainless steel...nothing except PVC. The only individual wire I see is the thermostat wire.

I guess the next step is to remove the cover of the 'box' and see what it looks like. I'll take another photo as well.

Those additional photos must have been posted while I was typing my reply, as I did not see them. That wire going to the "PVC" is actually a ground wire attached to a steel tube. This is a current conductor. You might have two of these in the tub, with the heater element located in between. This is an old school way of doing the heat setup in the tub. Now days you have the stainless steel tube. You won't find one here. You will likely have a "Tee" fitting attached to a length of PVC in which the heater element is attached. Look for this. Usually they are 2" in diameter. It will have what looks like an electric water heater element in it, if I'm not mistaken. There may be a metallic or plastic box attached to the end of that "tee" fitting as well.

ok some more photos. I see the 'Tee', and the wire going across it, but it does really go to anywhere. The other picture you can see it is bonded to another pvc pipe, but from there it is just used to hold the light in place.

The other end of the wire, on the right side of the 'Tee' doesn't go anywhere either.

Is this the conductor you are referring to?

that black box (image labeled 129-2952_IMG.JPG) is your heater housing. The box attached at the left side is where your power connections are. You have the type of element that has a square flange attached to the box with 4 bolts. That copper wire is in no way support for anyting, it's your ground for your current conductors. All metallic objects connected to the tub need to be bonded together, and that is what this is for.

I apologize, I forgot about that style of heater, even though I've had 3 of em LOL