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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:14 pm 

Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:14 am
Posts: 58
alright, one more quick question concerning the thermostat....

Assuming it is ok and doesn't stick again, it still has an issue with not being about to control very well. For me to get the heater to energize, I need to turn the dial, in my opinion, way to far. And to get it to shut off...same issue. This isn't a matter of a few tick marks...it's a lot more than that.

I'm not sure if this is a limitation of a non-digital system, or if the thermostat is getting worn out. If I do replace it, would it fix this problem to the point of better temp control?

If so, I will probably just replace it..it would be worth it.

Thanks again !


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 Post subject: Over Heat
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:32 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:18 pm
Posts: 102
Hi mchad21,
The spaside you have now is mechanical.
The new ones are solid state, and maintain temperature better.

http://spapartsnet.com/Control-Panels/A ... 4_0_1.html
( with all due respect to Spa Babes, Do NOT atempt to Re-callibrate your t-stat. It would be much like putting a dress on a pig)
You will need the adapter plate if you order one.

P.S.
You have a Gerico Spa with a Hayward pump, and Brett Aqualine "Spa Builders" pack.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:35 pm 

Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:14 am
Posts: 58
wow...a full blown ID !! You guys are amazing.

Ok the solid state is a possiblity. If I just wanted a replacement for my current thermostat, can you point me in that direction as well?

Thanks !!

BTW how did you know all that from just a few pics?


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 Post subject: Overheat
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:53 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:18 pm
Posts: 102
Hi mchad21,

The link provided in the last post is the site for parts here. I actually am not affiliated with this organization, and it would be rude to point you elsewhere.
The Spaside controller is one piece, and you cannot just replace the hermeticly sealed thermostat.

A Hayward pump is unique in it's apperance, and apparantly Gerico certainly approved of it enough to slap their label on it.
The plastic heater was used long ago by Brett Aqualine industries, and even though it is a "CRL" Knockoff, it is still a Brett heater. (Kinda like a Jeep is a Chrysler)

With all the different manufacturers mixed up in the soup, we ( my guys) try to relate products, and componants to gain an immediate image of the spa.

( an annoying habit to some :lol: )


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:33 am 

Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:14 am
Posts: 58
oh I see. Then what is the purpose of buying just a thermostat, like I have seen on other sites?

So my option if the thermostat goes bad is to replace the entire controller?

Not a big deal, just trying to find out my options.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 4:39 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Albert Lea, MN
IMO I would just replace the thermostat only IF that is the problem. Sure, the latest and greatest would be nice to have, but there is genius in the simplicity of the older designs. The parts are cheap, redily available, and usually have a good long lifespan.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:22 am 

Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:14 am
Posts: 58
That was my idea. If I could just replace the thermostat, and not the whole controller, that would be the cheaper way. But if that is not possible, and the whole controller needs to be replaced, then so be it.

But only if the problem persists. I'm still curious...can I just buy a new thermostat, and not the whole controller, if need be?

BTW I checked the spa this morning. The heater was not on, which means that the thermostat did it's job. The temp is right at 104-105degrees. Just to make sure, I kicked the heater on and checked the indicator light. It was illuminated.

Either this was a one-time problem, or it will be an ongoing battle.


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 Post subject: Oh for the good ol days
PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:54 am 

Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:18 pm
Posts: 102
The Genious in the simplicity of older designs involves the expansion of liquid from a capilary bulb, up a copper tube, into a pressplate, altering the angle of a rocker plate, which then depresses a micro switch, moving a single pole double throw paddle from the ready light terminal to the heater on points.
The portable spa thermostat (Invensys, Eaton Meyers, Sun ) were born of the boiler industry.
It makes no sence to me to break open a 15 year old Aquaset, and install technology designed to run an apartment complex boiler.

What will really bite is if after you sweat over the spaside controller, a month later one of the air transmitter bellows pukes.

The industry has gone away from mechanicle thermostats, and now the thermistor makes more sence.

I personaly hate High Limit service calls for the very reason this post is 4 pages long. If the controller were solid state as I posted from the begining, then overheat would be trouble shot differently.

I have also seen the modern work of art in the back yard before.

I am not a "Pack Changer", but will not subject my consumers to repeat problems resulting in call backs for myself.

( Ouch............. I just fell off of my soap box....) :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 11:27 am 

Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:14 am
Posts: 58
I completely understand, but....

I'm really interested in knowing what I should do next if this thing craps out (being fiscally responsible, of course).


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 Post subject: replacement Spaside
PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 1:58 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:18 pm
Posts: 102
Hi mchad21,
You will need a replacement spa side controller.

http://spapartsnet.com/Control-Panels/A ... 4_0_1.html

A spaside, or remote spaside, or aquaset, or thermostat, in your case are all one in the same. When I keep refering to your thermostat sticking, it is your "Command Center" unit I am refering to. It has a probe to read the temperature, and a large J&J style Aquaset plug. They are very easy to replace. The new TDI spasides are smaller (Fit old 2 button style) which is why you will need an adapter plate for the larger hole in the shell.

The equipment may be nearing it's end of trouble free run, and another drastic non-fiscal option would be a retrofit of the equipment.


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