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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:34 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:41 pm
Posts: 42
Location: connecticut
hottub.pool_boy wrote:
I agree. They are not always necessary, but they do enhance water quality.
If someone has iron or copper in their source water, stain and scale control is necessary if you want unstained water.
Some people like the polished look water clarifier will give their water.
Etc, etc.



My water is very clean using what i have. i just want to simplify what i'm doing.

Thank you for some great info :D

Johnnyspa



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 6:55 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:41 pm
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Location: connecticut
I want to thank Poolboy, charger. GREAT INFO it work GREAT!!!!!!!!


Thank You Again!!!!! Johnnyspa. :D :D :D :D



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 3:00 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
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Location: Albert Lea, MN
Quote:
Thank You Again!!!!! Johnnyspa.


Anytime! Happy Hot tubbin'



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 3:12 pm 
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Location: connecticut
Lifes to short not to hot tub :D :D :D



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 6:27 pm 

Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 5:23 pm
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Location: Bend, OR
Just chiming in with my two cents -- I recently got a hot tub, and started out with Bromine. Within 10 days, the water was very cloudy, I was having a hard time keeping the pH HIGH enough, and there was always a foam build-up that was kind of dirty, and eventually I got a skin reaction that looked like little pimples all over my body, which took almost a week to clear up. I dont know if the reaction was chemical or bacterial, but after doing further reading, I decided to drain the tub, clean it thoroughly, and switch to chlorine (DiChlor). This has been MUCH better all around. pH is far more stable (I add an occasional "pH decreaser" but that's not often). All i do is sprinkle about 2-3 teaspoons of the granular DiChlor after we get out of the tub, and shock with about 2 tablespoons once a week. The water has been crystal clear, doesnt smell of chemicals, and doesnt trash my skin!

Something to consider if you're on the fence with your chemical selection. Your mileage may vary.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 1:21 pm 

Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:51 am
Posts: 24
Location: South Central, WI
Just a minor clarification and some word of caution. The original responses alluded to Sodium Dichlor as being "unstable." Quite the contrary. It is why it is used in small bodies of water like a hot tub -- it is STABILIZED unlike Tri-Chlor. It is fairly close to neutral so small additions in small bodies of water don't drastically alter the pH.

On the other hand, what dichlor will do is build CYA which may (will) eventually aid in the eventual clouding of your water along with TDSs (Total Dissolved Solids, etc...). Because of this and other factors, that is the reason the water in your tub should be drained every few months...

As for me, I thought I would get a drain in this winter but since it snows every other #*^&%!($@# day, has been below zero, have mountains of snow all around me, and we can't get a break.... I closely watch my balance and use a little liquid chlorine ("unstablized") in lieu of dichlor to try to keep my CYA low. This requires a bit of pH minus (which is now affecting my TA)... Come on SPRING!!!

AGE


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 Post subject: Water clarifier
PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:25 pm 

Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:43 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Lexington OH
I have a HS spa using their mineral sanitizer. I am told I don't need water clarifier because of my ozonator. Please advise. Pete


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 3:44 pm 
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Location: SW Florida
If by "mineral" sanitizer, you mean the silver ion package? You still need to use a primary sanitizer or shocking agent.

As for clarifier, I doubt you'll need it, with or without the silver ion pack.

@Old-Age- I understand dichlor can also be described as stabalized, but once in the water- it will generally only last a few minutes to a few hours. (as available chlorine) Also, build up of CYA does add to tda, but with dichlor, we're talking such small amounts, it will take years before it reaches the point where TDA becomes an issue :wink:



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:10 pm 

Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:43 pm
Posts: 18
Location: Lexington OH
I recently had a CYA reading of 150. My dealer explained it to me and didn't understand how it got their. My water was only 6 weeks old. I ended up draining and refilling. I am thinking of using bleach after my cya gets above 40ppm.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:18 pm 
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Location: SW Florida
Bleach is an excessively poor sanitizer, with an extremely high PH. It makes for a poor shocking agent, and may cloud the tub as well.

Are you testing for Calcium or Cyunaric Acid?

Is your water regularly cloudy?

Post your chemical maintenance routine :)



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