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palacyk
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Post subject: Bromine v. Chlorine Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:34 pm |
Joined: Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:03 am Posts: 1
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What the difference?
What's better for your body (healthier)?
What's better for your hot tub?
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charger_1
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 5:21 pm |
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am Posts: 1153 Location: Albert Lea, MN
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differences... different chemicals
What's better for sanitation? chlorine all the way
what's better for your skin? none of them, but some people will react to chlorine, and not bromine.
Bromine can be harder to maintain
_________________ Please be patient for replies
ATTENTION! USE THE ADVISE ON THIS FORUM WISELY! WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR INJURIES, DEATH, DAMAGE, ETC. ARISING FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION IN THIS FORUM!
NOTE: I can't guarentee knowledge of all spas.
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Swine
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 6:42 pm |
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:50 am Posts: 903 Location: SW Florida
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Please note that not all "chlorine" is created equal. There are at least 3 popular flavors, all with drastically different chemical properties.
I recommend "sodum dichlor" type granulated chlorine. It's virtually PH neutral, and is unstable (it won't stay in the water too long). It dissolves rapidly as well..
If you add about 1 teaspoon/300 gallons AFTER each use, and shock it with about 1 teaspoons/100 gallons once a week, you'll never evenb smell the chlorine, as the residuals will be about the same as your drinking water. No red eyes, no chemical odor, and balanced PH and Alkalinity.
If you can add an ozone generator, cut the after use chloriniation in 1/2.
I detest bromine, yet I shouldn't. My customers that are stuck on bromine feeders are certainly doing their part for my kids college tuition, what with all the replced heaters and shaft-seal repairs. Not to mention, it stinks to high heaven...
The beuaty of Sodium dichlor is not only the balanced PH, but also the fact that your adding it when the spa actually needs sanitation. As soon as you get out, that's as dirty as that water is ever going to be, and that is when it needs sanitation. Once you've tossed in the teaspoon or so of chlorine, it simply evaporates. The next day, the residual will likely >1ppm
Conversley, with bromine feeders, they're always adding the same amount of sanitizer, whether the tub needs it or not, and at the sime time, are always dropping the PH and alklinity, making it a very corrosive environment. The end result is almost always an over-sanitized tub, that is a constant PH battle. Unfortunaley, for the majority, it's a battle lost, the PH is always too low, corroding equipment and generally lowing the overall quality of the spa experience.
_________________ t'was a woman that drove me to drink, and I've never had the courtesy to thank her
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johnnyspa
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 5:57 pm |
Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:41 pm Posts: 42 Location: connecticut
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Swine wrote: Please note that not all "chlorine" is created equal. There are at least 3 popular flavors, all with drastically different chemical properties.
I recommend "sodum dichlor" type granulated chlorine. It's virtually PH neutral, and is unstable (it won't stay in the water too long). It dissolves rapidly as well..
If you add about 1 teaspoon/300 gallons AFTER each use, and shock it with about 1 teaspoons/100 gallons once a week, you'll never evenb smell the chlorine, as the residuals will be about the same as your drinking water. No red eyes, no chemical odor, and balanced PH and Alkalinity.
If you can add an ozone generator, cut the after use chloriniation in 1/2.
I detest bromine, yet I shouldn't. My customers that are stuck on bromine feeders are certainly doing their part for my kids college tuition, what with all the replced heaters and shaft-seal repairs. Not to mention, it stinks to high heaven...
The beuaty of Sodium dichlor is not only the balanced PH, but also the fact that your adding it when the spa actually needs sanitation. As soon as you get out, that's as dirty as that water is ever going to be, and that is when it needs sanitation. Once you've tossed in the teaspoon or so of chlorine, it simply evaporates. The next day, the residual will likely >1ppm
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Swine
Where can i get "sodum dichlor" i'm in connecticut.
Thank you johnnyspa.
_________________ 104 degrees
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hottub.pool_boy
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 9:39 pm |
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 7:52 pm Posts: 235 Location: connecticut
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Right here. Bring some water in, we test it for free. Brstol or Torrington. You can order it from us online as well. Other options are most any local spa retailer near you.
_________________ Genuine HotSpring parts and Spaguard chemicals online
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johnnyspa
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 6:31 am |
Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:41 pm Posts: 42 Location: connecticut
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hottub.pool_boy wrote: Right here. Bring some water in, we test it for free. Brstol or Torrington. You can order it from us online as well. Other options are most any local spa retailer near you.
Thank you!! I think i will stop down next week.
johnnyspa 
_________________ 104 degrees
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johnnyspa
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 12:20 pm |
Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:41 pm Posts: 42 Location: connecticut
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If you use dichlor, a teaspoon a day and a teaspoon for every 100 gallons a week to sanatize. do you still need Stain and scale, natural spa enzyme , water clarifier and hot tub shock???
Thank you johnnyspa 
_________________ 104 degrees
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charger_1
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 4:41 pm |
Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am Posts: 1153 Location: Albert Lea, MN
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Quote: do you still need Stain and scale, natural spa enzyme , water clarifier and hot tub shock???
most likely not... in fact, you probably wouldn't ever need those chemicals, as long as you keep your ph balanced. They are just money in the dealer's pockets, really.
_________________ Please be patient for replies
ATTENTION! USE THE ADVISE ON THIS FORUM WISELY! WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR INJURIES, DEATH, DAMAGE, ETC. ARISING FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION IN THIS FORUM!
NOTE: I can't guarentee knowledge of all spas.
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johnnyspa
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 4:46 pm |
Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:41 pm Posts: 42 Location: connecticut
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charger_1 wrote: Quote: do you still need Stain and scale, natural spa enzyme , water clarifier and hot tub shock??? most likely not... in fact, you probably wouldn't ever need those chemicals, as long as you keep your ph balanced. They are just money in the dealer's pockets, really.
Thanks Charger 
_________________ 104 degrees
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hottub.pool_boy
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 9:09 pm |
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 7:52 pm Posts: 235 Location: connecticut
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I agree. They are not always necessary, but they do enhance water quality.
If someone has iron or copper in their source water, stain and scale control is necessary if you want unstained water.
Some people like the polished look water clarifier will give their water.
Etc, etc.
_________________ Genuine HotSpring parts and Spaguard chemicals online
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