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 Post subject: The spa blues
PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2005 11:14 am 

Joined: Tue May 24, 2005 10:55 am
Posts: 4
Just some feedback on my spa purchase. Two years ago I purchased the Emerald Elite 599. My wife and I completely enjoyed the spa until I restarted it up this past season. I have had to replace two turbo jet barrels so far, and the heating element went. Fortunately I was just at the warrenty expiration and these items were addressed by the dealer. When I called Emerald they were unsympathetic to my complaint, and I was told that it was the water chemistry. I faithfully maintain this spa after each use, and have it drained and serviced at the end of the season.
Has anyone had a similar experience? :evil:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 5:18 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Albert Lea, MN
My initial thought too is water chemistry. To me, it would sound like your total hardness is too high, and caused calcium deposits on the jets (which is about the only way to make them not work) and on the heater element which would cause it to over heat and crack. If you have been using a simple "ph and sanitizer" test kit, upgrade to one that does the seven checks, including total hardness.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2005 11:24 am 

Joined: Tue May 24, 2005 10:55 am
Posts: 4
Thanks for the info on water chemistry. Since my last post I had to replace the last two swirl jet barrels. I can understand that chemical deposits can cause corrosion and eventual failure. I'd like to think that the manufacturer would treat the various parts with a corrosive resistant material that would at least prevent pre-mature failure. It is very difficult for the average spa user to understand and balance the water chemistry to ideal levels.. Interpreting water test results is one thing; correcting the chemical balance is a much harder task.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2005 11:35 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Albert Lea, MN
Quote:
I'd like to think that the manufacturer would treat the various parts with a corrosive resistant material that would at least prevent pre-mature failure.


actually, I don't believe they corroded. Most likely it was a build up of deposits from the water. The parts are almost always plastic or nylon, which is not going to corrode.

To aid you in learning "how much of what" to put in, regarding chemicals, keep a chart. Chart the starting chemical readings, then use a measuring device, add an amount of corrective chemical, then wait 1/2 hour with the tub cycling and take a test again and record the results. With the chart, you will soon learn that "this much of a reading requires this much correction" and you can keep that by the spa as a troubleshooting guide for next time you need to adjust it. Always start by adjusting the PH FIRST.



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ATTENTION! USE THE ADVISE ON THIS FORUM WISELY! WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR INJURIES, DEATH, DAMAGE, ETC. ARISING FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION IN THIS FORUM!

NOTE: I can't guarentee knowledge of all spas.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2005 8:13 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 8:02 am
Posts: 149
Location: Australia
chemical abuse is the major cause of jet failure - and yes plastic bearing races do get 'eaten' away as a result of poor water chemistry as do electric heater elements


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2005 3:08 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 02, 2005 2:02 pm
Posts: 21
Quote:
Interpreting water test results is one thing; correcting the chemical balance is a much harder task.


That is why a good dealer is so important. Every now and then(1-3 months), I would take a water sample to your dealer. A good dealer will check the water on their computer and make suggestions. Most people don't want to do it for fear that the dealer will try to sell you something that you don't need. There are some dealers like this. :x But find one that is reputable. It will be time well spent.[/quote]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2005 3:16 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 1153
Location: Albert Lea, MN
Quote:
and yes plastic bearing races do get 'eaten' away as a result of poor water chemistry


The chemicals themselves do not harm the plastic and nylon parts. What is happening is deposits are forming on the parts, and just like sand in a wheel bearing, the deposits are causing friction and that will lead to pitting and the appearance of the parts being eaten away, when in fact they are being ground away.



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ATTENTION! USE THE ADVISE ON THIS FORUM WISELY! WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR INJURIES, DEATH, DAMAGE, ETC. ARISING FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION IN THIS FORUM!

NOTE: I can't guarentee knowledge of all spas.
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