I've had overheat issues with my spa (Brett Aqualine/CRL spa pack) so I decided to replace my thermostat..it needed an upgrade anyway. I installed a new Techmark unit, and the spa controlled temp great for a few weeks.

Went out one night and the spa was at 115, the pump was running, the high limit switch had tripped. I understand from my reading that this is either a thermostat problem, or a contactor problem. So the next step was to replace the contactor. I purchased a 5-00-0015, Contactor Replacement kit CV2000, which states it's a replacement for all CRL spa packs.

The first thing I noticed is that the original contactor had two screw terminals, one on each end. This new unit has 2 on each end, labeled T1, T2, L1 and L2. The schematic is attached below, as well as the original connections for the existing contactor.

It appears I need to add wires, and they provide them, but I'm not clear how and where. I tried every combination possible with the existing wires, but I cannot control the pump (when I energize the unit the pump comes on and I cannot turn it off), and I can't get the heater indicator light to heat, which i think means the contactor is not opening the heating circuit. I know the heater works because I can force the light to come on (by depressing the relay) on the old contactor. BTW the high limit push pin is depressed and it still does not engage the heater.

I think everything I have now is functional, I just need some help on how to install it correctly.

BTW my spa is 120V.

Thanks all !

here is the schematic that came with the new contactor

I think you've made an error in what you purchased.

The description for that part is:
This replacement kit is used to replace all CRL/Ramco/SBSG CV2000 heater circuit boards.

It says nothing about packs: it's referring to CV2000 BOARDS.
The schematic for the 'KIT', is referring to a circuit board replacement.
Put the schematic away, along with the wires that came with it.

Your old contactor was a single pole. What you ordered was a double.

Just use one side of the new contactor - (T1-L1). And the coil wires (on the side) and it should be fine. (Put them side by side -old and new- and you'll understand it then.)

Thanks pageup. I was assuming it was for a double pole, and I only needed to use certain connectors, but now I understand where I errored. I was using only L1/T1, but I was putting someo f the plug-in connectors on the L2/T2 side. That will solve the problem.

Two more quick questions:

1) in my drawing, which wire is L1, adn which is T1? I'm assuming it's the two that were under the setscrews in the original contactor, but it wasn't labeled so I don't know which is which.

2) I have 3 connections that need to go on the push in connectors on the T1/L1 side, but only have two slots. Two of the connections are white (I'm assuming neutrals) Can I splice them together and place them on 1 of the connectors, with the red connector on the other slot?

Another problem I have right now is if I plug in the unit, the pump goes on, and it will not turn off until I unplug the unit, or unplug the pin plug.

I'm assuming the correct wiring of the contactor will take care of the problem..?

Thanks again !!

Doesn't matter. Either or/Vice versa will work.


Yes, but you must maintain the same electrical connections - that is, don't get them mixed up. As for your explanation of what is what I can't rely on that to tell you what to do or what not to do.

Example: if you had 6 white leads going to a single terminal, then be sure that those same leads attach to the same point. Matter of connection is not necessarily important.



The heater contactor doesn't affect the pump operation. Don't know what model of system you have so, I cannot determine what you're referring to by the term... 'pin plug'.

As for your diagram, it's a little dangerous to make decisions based on it because the terminology isn't clear.

A photo of what you have would be a more preferred means.

Thanks pageup. For starters the space where the access door is is pretty tight (the previous owner built the gazebo 'around' the spa), so I can't even get in there to get a clear picture, but...

The 'pin plug' I was referring to is the 12 pin plug that goes from inside the compartment where the heater leads are, to the spa pack conrol area for the the various functions. I have a CRL/Brett Aqualine spa pack if that helps any.

If the push-in tabs on the contactor are not dependent on wire placement, that is if I can put either wire (red or white for now) on either tab and the result will be the same, then I should be able to splice in the other white and put all the neutrals on one tab. I would suspect that location on the push-in tab is not critical, since the tabs are basically one single piece.

I think where I errored was that I put one of the push-pin connectors on the L2/T2 side. Would this cause things not to work right? If so, then that's the problem. If not, then I have another problem.

Weird thing is that after screwing around with it for a while (yesterday), I couldn't get the heater to come on, but the pump stayed on. I removed all connections from the contactor, and the pump still was on. I removed the plug connection between the spa pack and the thermostat, and the pump still stayed on. The only way I could get it to turn off, sans pulling the electrical plug, was to disconnect the 12-pin plug; the one that goes to the spa pack, from where the heater area is. The plug consists of wires coming from within that area (sorry I can't be more specific on this part; I can try to get a snapshot if necessary). Some of the wires come from the pump as well.

Thanks again for all your help !!

Matt

Sorry,
Based on what you just posted... this thing is way beyond any reasonable manner of help via a forum method.

1. It's too old and outdated.
2. Unless somebody around here worked on one of these things like yesterday, you're just not going to get an adequate or response that could be considered 'safe to use'.
3. You don't have a schematic, which is really necessary in this situation. (And I doubt any are available anywhere).

You might try: http://alliedinnovations for a corresponding system schematic. But I doubt if that will be any help.

The moment you mentioned '12 pin plug', everything just went out the window.

It's not really a plug, but here are the pics of it. The male end consists of wires from the heater area, power connection and limit switch (you can see the limit switch box). The female end goes to the spa pack control area.

I realize it's old, especially the pump, but if i can put the new contactor in the same method as the other one, it should work. My main question is this:

If I had the push-in contactors on the L2/T2 side, would this cause the unit to not operate correctly? I would think it would, since my unit is single pole and that connection is on the 'other' pole.

Also, would this be the right contactor to purchase?

http://spapartsnet.com/Electrical-Parts ... 8_0_1.html

Thanks for all your help.